Mestia route via the Southwest Ridge, Category 1B

Route Description:

From the "Djailyk" base camp* past the "Ullu-Tau" recreation center and further along the trail along the right (orographically) bank from Adyr-Su to the moraine rises to the left of the Adyr-Su glacier tongue. The first of these has Mestian overnight stays. Climbing to the next rise, we reach the glacier and cross it in the direction of the large hitching post on which the Mestian hut is located; we go around the hitching post on the left and climb onto it. There are small crevices under the hitching post. From the Mestia Hut, we ascend a steep firn slope, and to the right of the rocky ridge, we reach the glacier. The path continues along the glacier, which is usually covered with a thick layer of snow. Large glacier crevices are bypassed on the right as we proceed. Further, after a steep ascent, we again emerge onto a large firn plateau, along which we move in the direction of the Mestia Pass. From the Mestia Pass, we turn left and move across the vast firn plateau towards the snow pyramid of Mestia-Tau. Crevices are possible on the left as we proceed. Descent is via the ascent route. The median moraine of the Adyr-Su glacier

259. Sarykol — Mestia

(the route is combined, by D. Gudkov, category 2A, fig. 18, 29). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Mestia saddle with an initial bivouac on the plateau or in the Adyrsu hut is described in route 247. At the Mestia saddle, turn left and along the snowy plateau (closed crevices) approach the right (southern) slopes of the Western ridge of Sarykol peak, bypassing the lower gendarmes. From the plateau:

• along a gently sloping wide snowy slope,
• then along the talus and easy rocks of the wide couloir on the right side of the Western ridge ("live" stones) ascent to the saddle of the Western ridge to the right and above the Big gendarme. On the saddle, turn right and along the snow-covered easy, местами simple rocks of the long gentle saddle of the Western ridge approach the summit ascent. From here:
• along a gently sloping ice-snow couloir,
• further along simple ruined rocks of the ascent ascend to the summit of Sarykol. From the plateau of the circus, 1.5-2 hours. On the summit of Sarykol, turn right, then a short descent along a simple ridge in the direction of Mestia peak. Further along a simple sharp destroyed rocky ridge approach the I gendarme. Along rocks of medium difficulty of the 40-50-meter wall, ascent (insurance with a rope) to the I gendarme. Along a heavily destroyed, местами sharp simple easy ridge with numerous gendarmes descend to the ridge. From the ridge, along simple rocks, ascent, then along a simple destroyed rocky ridge with several short ice-snow ridges (cornices) ascend to the summit of Mestia.

Fig. 29

Mestia route via the southwest ridge, 1B

Route description:

From the "Djailyk" base camp* past the "Ullu-Tau" camp and further along the trail along the right (orographically) bank from Adyr-Su to the moraine rises to the left of the Adyr-Su glacier tongue. The first of them hosts Mestia camping sites. Having ascended to the next rise, we reach the glacier and cross it in the direction of a large hitzan on which the Mestia hut is located; we bypass the hitzan on the left and ascend onto it. There are small crevasses under the hitzan. From the Mestia hut, we ascend a steep firn slope, and to the right of the rocky ridge, we reach the glacier. Further, the path goes along the glacier, which is usually covered with a thick layer of snow. Large crevasses on the glacier are bypassed on the right as we proceed. Further, after a steep ascent, we again reach a large firn plateau and move along it in the direction of the Mestia pass. From the Mestia pass, we turn left and move along the vast firn plateau towards the snowy pyramid of Mestia-Tau. There may be crevasses on the left as we proceed. The descent is made via the ascent route. Median moraine of the Adyr-Su glacier

Ascent Record

(Mestia-tau summit via the South Counterfort)

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus.
3. Ascent route — Mestia-tau peak (4130 m) via the South Counterfort, combined.
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1100 m.
5. Pitons used: rock — 22, ice — 0, screw — 0.
6. Duration — 13–14 hours.
7. Number of nights on the route — none.
8. Team name — instructors from "Djailyk" alpine camp.

Report

On the ascent of Mestia-Tau peak via the Southern counterfort, category 4B (approximately)

Mestia-Tau peak is located in the upper part of the Lekzyr massif, in a spur of the Main Caucasian Ridge extending from the Western peak of Sarykol-Bashi. From Mestia-Tau peak, a snow-ice ridge descends westward to the Mestia Pass plateau, classified as a category 1B route. To the north, a ridge leads to the Western peak of Sarykol-Bashi and is part of the traverse of these peaks via a category 2A route. The eastern slopes of Mestia-Tau peak feature very steep and deteriorated rocks, interspersed with small ledges. To the south, the peak initially gives way to a narrow and gentle snow ridge leading to the "Uzlovoĭ" gendarme, which then drops off southward with a rocky triangular wall. The middle part of this wall forms a pronounced rocky ridge. The route along the Southern ridge is logical and safe. This route can be recommended for the ascent of sports groups at the 5th training stage located in the vicinity of the Lekzyr glacier. Map of the Lekzyr glacier area. Group's route. Tourist trails. The base camp of the Dzhaĭlyk alpine camp разрядников was situated on the right (orographic) upper lateral moraine of the Lekzyr glacier, beneath the slopes of the eastern peak of Ullu-Tau.

Route Description

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.4. Central Caucasus, mountain region — Prielbrusye, Terskol gorge, SE spur of Elbrus
2. Names of peaks: Sarykolbashi-tersak (3776) — Sarykol (3700) Route: traverse from south to north
3. Category of complexity: 2B
4. Character of the route — rock.
5. Height difference of the route: 1376 m
6. Length of the route: 3320 m
7. Length of sections with the highest category of complexity: