Узункол

Report on the first ascent of Category 2B route via the northwestern ridge of Uzunkol peak (3487 m) in the Caucasus.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF UZUNKOL VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2B, BY THE "SAMARA-PENZA" TEAM, AUGUST 24, 2022 Ascent Passport | | 1. General Information | | | :-: | :--------------------------------------------------------: | :---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Klimov Sergey Alexandrovich, CMS | | 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Strochkov Maxim Sergeevich, 1st sports rank | | 1.3 | Full Name of Coaches | Erokhov Igor Yurievich, Knyazeva Marina Alexandrovna | | 1.4 | Organization | SROO "FASO" | | | 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object | | | 2.1 | Region | Uzunkol |

Description of the category 2B route to Uzunkol Peak via the north-west ridge, climbed by a group from Czechoslovakia in 1973.

M53. Peak Uzunkol via the Northwest Ridge (rock route, category 2B difficulty, led by a Czechoslovak team, 1973) From "Uzunkol", follow the right bank of the Myrdy River to the first shepherds' huts. Then, cross two branches of the river and follow the trail to a large clearing, 200 m before the rockfall on the left bank of Myrdy. From here: Ascend left-upwards along grassy slopes and overgrown moraine, bypassing the false peak that rises with large sheer walls above the fork of Myrdy — Kichkinekol. Continue along grassy slopes and scree to the cirque between the northwest and west ridges of Peak Uzunkol. From here, ascend the scree slope, a short snowpatch, and rocks to the depression in the northwest ridge. From "Uzunkol" — 3.5 hours. Then: Follow the ridge to the right and, bypassing the first gendarme on the left via a large ledge and slope, overcome the second gendarme "head-on", leaving the rock "finger" below to the right. From here, descend on the right side of the ridge to a col to the next small gendarme, which is bypassed on the left via a ledge R0.