The summit of Kara-Tas is located in the lateral ridge of the Novy spur, Zailiyskiy Alatau range. This ridge starts from the Jambul peak and runs in a north-eastern direction. To the north of the summit lies the Yuzhny TBU glacier, and to the south - a branch of the Shaklskiy glacier. The route begins from the moraine of the Yuzhny TBU glacier, heading in the direction and reaching the ridge at the saddle between the second and third gendarmes via a wide scree couloir or rock outcrops. A gendarme resembling a finger visible from the glacier can serve as a landmark; it remains on the right during ascent. The first cairn is built on the saddle. From the saddle, move towards the finger (third gendarme), which is bypassed on the right. The fourth gendarme is bypassed on the right along snowy rocks, for a distance of three rope lengths. The rocks are heavily damaged. Alternate belay is necessary. The next gendarmes (5, 6, and 7) are bypassed on the right without reaching the saddles. The rock "saw" is bypassed to the left, without reaching the saddles, followed by an ascent to the ridge along an internal angle (alternate belay). The large 8th gendarme, resembling a bastion, is ascended immediately to the left along moderately difficult rocks. The second cairn is built on the ridge after the eighth gendarme. Then, proceed along the ridge of the Eastern shoulder. Initially, there are rocks, followed by a small snowy plateau. Belay is necessary when reaching the plateau. The plateau transitions into a snowy ridge with a series of gendarmes that are bypassed. Simultaneous movement is permissible here. The ridge leads to a wide rocky ascent, 70–80 m high. Ascent to the rise:

• via scree couloirs and rocks, exiting onto a lateral ridge;
• then along it to the rise. Belay is alternate.

MAP — DIAGRAM OF THE CLIMBING AREA

Brief description of the approach to the route

The approach to the start of the first ascent route from the Talgar alp camp is along the trail along the Sr. Talgar River to the Shumikhinsky overnight stay, located at the foot of v. Karaulchita (2 h 30 min); then cross to the left (orographic) bank of the river and along the trail approach the "Tekegrad" overnight stay (1 h 15 min). From the "Tekegrad" bivouac, the path goes along the moraine of the South TEU glacier in the SW direction. 400–500 m before the glacier tongue, turn in the southern direction, cross the lateral moraine of the glacier towards the 70-meter tower, which ends the NE buttress of v. Karatash. The approach from "Tekegrad" to the start of the route takes 25–30 min.

Brief explanation for the route table

At the foot of the ice slope, it is necessary to rope up and move vertically upwards to the beginning of the characteristic internal corner, using stones frozen in the ice, sometimes with step cutting. Climbing the inner corner (section R1–R2) is quite difficult:

• rocks are fragile;
• in some places 2–3 m wall;

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - combined 2. Ascent region - Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, Middle Talgar gorge 3. Peaks RAPATAK, 4050 m., north-eastern counterfort 4. Presumed difficulty category - 3A. 5. Route characteristics:

• height difference - 750 m.
• length of sections with 5th difficulty category - none
• average steepness - 30

6. Pitons driven: