Кыргыз-Ата, Узловая
Route Description: В гребню
Description of the climbing route to the summit of Jashtyk-To mountain in Kuyur-Arau ridge, with accompanying photographs and route map.
Jashtyk-To Mountain
2A category, 600 m, 40°, 4 people via Jashtyk Pass. March 31, 1981. Tsibulevsky, V. Zhmaev, M. Karpenkov, I. Shchekanov (leader).
Kichik-Alay ridge, upper Kyrgyz-Ata valley. Scale: 1 cm = 500 m. Approximately 100 km from Osh city to Iski-Naukat forestry.
Main characteristics table for the route to Kyrgyz-Ata peak via Jashtyk Pass
| Date, time | Section | Group | Average steepness | Distance, m | Difficulty category | Relief type | Relief condition | Weather conditions | Rock pitons | Ice pitons | Bolts |
Route Description: С гребню
Ascent to Kirgizata East via North Ridge, combined route 2A, length 1000 m, time 4-5 hours.
- Kirgizata Vostochnaya via the North Ridge. The route is combined, cat. 2A (fig. 5, 6, 40, 41, 43). Length — 1000 m, ascent — 450 m, time — 4–5 hours. The path from the Kirgizata alpine camp (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac by the lake under the northwestern slopes of Jyrty peak — see route 23. From the initial bivouac, move up-right across the moraine, then cross the Vostochny Kirgizata Glacier and approach the right side of the Eastern buttress of the North Ridge of Kirgizata Vostochnaya peak. From the glacier, ascend the ice-snow slope to the Eastern buttress. Along the snowy, scree-covered, wide, and gently sloping Eastern buttress, rise to the lower shoulder of the North Ridge. On the shoulder, turn left and follow the easy, broken rocks and scree, overcoming numerous simple short walls and low seracs (with protection) along the gently sloping 300–400-meter North Ridge to the foot.
Along simple sections with short walls of medium difficulty, and steep 40–50° rocks of the ascent, perform a 200–250-meter climb (pitons protection) to the upper shoulder.
From the shoulder, traverse 150–200 meters along the simple rocks of the North Ridge, bypassing a serac on the left (protection), approach the base of the North serac's tower, and ascend a simple 10–12-meter wall (protection) to the serac.
From the serac, descend 10 meters using a sport descent down a simple wall, and along the scree-covered, snowy 200–250-meter North Ridge, approach the rocky tower of the summit.
Ascend an 8–12-meter simple wall (“live” rocks, protection) to reach the summit of Kirgizata Vostochnaya.
From the initial bivouac — 5–6 hours.