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Peak4,903 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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First ascent description of Peak N. Armstrong (4909 m) via the north wall in the Central Tian Shan, EE difficulty grade, climbed by the Profsport-II team in 16 hours on August 12.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — ice and snow 2. Ascent area — Central Tien-Shan; Terskey Ala-Too ridge 3. Peak named after N. Armstrong (4909 m) via the North face. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 6B. First ascent. 5. Height difference — 830 m. Distance — 1270 m. Distance of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 830 m. Average steepness — 43°. Steepness of the wall section — 51° 6. Pitons driven:

rock 3/0boltchocksice
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Ascent to Peak Armstrong via the North wall, category 5B difficulty, 850 m elevation gain, 1280 m length.

PASSPORT

  1. Class — snow-ice
  2. Tian-Shan, Djetyoguz gorge
  3. Peak Armstrong by the North wall
  4. Proposed 5B cat. diff. (second ascent)
  5. Elevation gain — 850 m, length 1280 m, wall — 1120 m, length of 5 cat. diff. sections — 910 m, average steepness of the main part — 52°
  6. Pitons driven: ice — 232/0
  7. Climbing hours — 10 h
  8. No overnight stay
  9. Leader — Gorbenko Mstislav Mstislavovich — Master of Sports of International Class
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First ascent via the north wall of peak Armstrong (4908 m) in Teskey Ala-Too, 5–6 cat., 848 m height difference, 1245 m length.

  1. Hiking class
  2. Terekty Apatoo, Gaumop chain
  3. p. N. Armstronga, 4908 m, via the northern wall
  4. Proposed — 5–6 cat.diff, first ascent
  5. Height difference: 848 m, length — 1245 m. Height difference of the main part (4060–4860): 800 m, length — 1085 m. Length of sections with 5 cat.diff — 885 m. Average slope of the main part of the route — 52°.
  6. Protection: hook protection
    • rock cams, looped stoppers
    • 2
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