Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area, range: Fan Mountains 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: P. Chaplygina, 4500 m, via the southwest ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 350-400 m, average slope 45°, length of 5th category sections 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and creating anchor points, rock/IО ice — bolted 7. Number of climbing hours: 3.5 hours 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications: MUMDZhI T.M., CMS — leader; Nerdnikov V.M., 1st sports category; Trusenkov V.V., 1st sports category

Peak Chaplygina, 4500 m

From the overnight spot near the moraine under Chimtarga we enter the glacier under the ridge between Peak Chaplygina and Peak SO AN — 1 hour. Ascent to the ridge along the edge of the snowfield and talus (40 minutes) without a rope. On the ridge, beware of falling. Further, the path goes along the ridge with a detour around several gendarmes via ledges on the right. Insurance is alternating, through выступы (ledges or rock projections). The ridge leads to a wall with a steepness of 60–70°. Along a narrow stone ledge to the right of the ridge, two ropes with alternating insurance (2 pitons) lead to the beginning of a wide, steep chimney. Here the entire group can be accommodated. The 1st control cairn is also located here. Further, up the steep, not very pronounced chimney, sometimes interrupted by sheer 3–4 m walls, 6 ropes. Insurance is via pitons. Caution! Falling rocks! Entrance under an arch, which is bypassed on the right. Up, half a rope — a large spacious balcony with stone railings, from which there is a beautiful view of Chimtarga. On the balcony, the 2nd control cairn is set up. The path from the ridge to the 2nd control cairn takes 4 hours 30 minutes. From the balcony, 40 m of very difficult maneuvering. First, along an existing crevice, then exit to a sharp crest leading to a dangerous, talus-filled couloir. Along the couloir — to an inclined slab, and exit, bypassing the slab, to a talus ledge under an overhanging rock. These 40 m are traversed in 1.5–2 hours. Along the ledges, we traverse left and enter a steep rock gully with smoothed stones — 30 m, and further along a not difficult, destroyed ridge — exit to the summit (1 hour). Further along the ridge — the second summit. On both summits — cairns. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire path to the summit from the overnight spot — 9–10 hours. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• 2 ropes, 40 m each
• 40 m of accessory cord (repschnur)

Verkhnyaya Baika and Chaniyagina