Description of the First Ascent to the Festivalnaya Peak via the North Face

The Festivlnaya peak is located in the upper reaches of the Mama River, in the southern spur of the Hissar Range - south of the Proni Siam and South Siam peaks. This spur stretches from north to south and sharply turns east near the Festivlnaya peak. There are two Festivlnaya peaks:

• Eastern
• Western (main, height 4350 m), which are elevations on a massive ridge stretching in a latitudinal direction. A route along the ridge from east to west was previously traversed and is rated as a 4A category route. The northern slopes of the peak are steep, with snow-covered rocks and steep snow and ice couloirs in many places. A significant snow and ice couloir descends from the saddle between the Eastern and Western peaks. The rocks on the left (in the direction of travel) bank of the couloir are heavily destroyed, and stones are constantly falling from there. To the right of the couloir, there are two counterforts separated by a snowy slope, and ascent routes to the peak are possible via both.

1. Class of ascent — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Festivalnaya, 4350 m via the Left northern counterfort.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: a/. Height difference — 400 m; b/. Length of sections with 4A category difficulty – 145 m; c/. Length of sections with 3B category difficulty – 370 m; d/. Average steepness — 50°.
6. Number of pitons driven: