Акташ
Route Description: С ребру
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit of Ak-Tash in the Alay mountain range, category 4 difficulty, first climbed in 1962.
Ascent via the North Ridge
The summit of Ak-tash is located in the northwestern spurs of the Alay Range, in the upper reaches of the following glaciers:
- to the southwest — Dugoba,
- to the northeast — Ak-Tash,
- to the northwest — Dugoba-Shigou. The Ak-tash summit massif consists of heavily fragmented granite and limestone rocks.
Day One
From the "Dugoba" alpine camp, we proceed along the Dugoba River valley to the confluence of the Ak-Tash and Ulitor rivers (2 hours). At the confluence, the trail forks; the further path lies along the left orographic bank of the Ak-Tash River, bypassing a pronounced rocky massif on the right. The trail leads to a green meadow; after crossing it, we descend to the Surmetash River, and then, traversing the talus and grassy slopes above the left bank of the Ak-Tash River, we reach a canyon-like steep descent to the river (3–3.5 hours from the confluence).
Route Description: 3 ребру
SSummitMate### First Ascent via the Western Edge of Aktash Peak (4937 m) in the Dugoba-Shigou Valley, Category 5B Complexity.
Central Council of the Zenit Sports Society
Protocol No. 396
dated April 15, 1975
5A first ascent
(daib)
AKTASH — 4937 m
VIA THE WESTERN EDGE
(first ascent)
Naumov A.F. Master of Sports