Mount Dyultydag

Peak4,127 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Doltag (4127 m) via the North-Eastern ridge, difficulty category 2B, in the Eastern Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock climb
  2. Ascent area according to KTMGV (Mountaineering and Trekking Classification of Mountain Routes) Eastern Caucasus
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route Dyultydag 4127 m via the northeast ridge
  4. Proposed category of difficulty 2B cat. diff. ≈ 15 / 1–80
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 280 m, average steepness 45°, length of sections I — 150 m; II — 8 m; III — 180 m; IV — 50 m; V — 150 m; VI — 5 m; VII — 20 m.
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Ascent of Dultyadag (4127 m) via the North-Eastern buttress, a combined route of 2A category of difficulty, first ascent in 1994.

I. Winter climb. 2. Area 2.10. Dagestan mountains. 3. Dyultydag, 4127 m, via the North-Eastern counterfort, combined route. 4. Category 2A complexity, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain 500 m, section lengths: 1st cat. — 700 m, 2nd cat. — 630 m, 3rd cat. — 170 m, total route — 1500 m, average steepness of the counterfort — 35°. 6. Rock pitons used — 1 pc., rock outcrops — 2 pcs. 7. Climbing hours — 3. 8. No overnight stays on the route. Overnight stay in the approach camp in the North-Eastern cirque at 3500 m. 9. Participants:

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Ascent of Dultydag (4127 m) via the Eastern Ridge, a combined route of 2B category of difficulty, first ascent in 1995.

Ascent Record

  1. Category of first ascents.
  2. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Shalib ridge.
  3. Dul'tydag, 4127 m, via the East Ridge, combined route.
  4. Category 2B, first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, average slope 25°, length 3250 m. By sections: category 1 – 1350 m, category 2 – 980 m, category 3 – 820 m, category 4 – 200 m.
  6. Belay points used: rock outcrops – 5, placed protection – 2.
  7. Climbing time – 5 hours.
  8. No overnight stays on the route, overnight stay in ABC near the confluence of Nukkura and Bodonai rivers (2700 m).
  9. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich – Candidate Master of Sports, Voronin Sergey Valer'evich – 1st sports category, Maksimov Evgeny Vladimirovich – 2nd sports category.
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