Ascent Record

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Aktru peak, 4044 m, via the South slope.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 500 m, distance: 700 m, average steepness of the main part: 45°.
6. Pitons used: 2 rock, 2 ice.
7. Team's total climbing hours: 5 hours.
8. Leader: Afanasiev A.E., Candidate Master of Sports. Team members: Shakleev V.I., Candidate Master of Sports, Morozov V.V., Candidate Master of Sports.

Peak Aktru, via the East ridge from Bolshoy Aktru glacier, cat. III

From the camp... From the moraine lake, move along the edge of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier along the slopes of Stazerov Peak. The glacier is heavily crevassed, so move in rope teams until the couloir between Stazerov Peak and the large gendarme on the East ridge of Aktru Peak. Climb the couloir through the ruined rocks on the left-hand side of the couloir and reach the lowest point of the East ridge (2–2.5 hours). Follow the easy ridge to the large gendarme (control cairn) and continue in the direction of the summit until the pre-summit rise. The snowy-icy rise is the key section of the route (time 2–2.5 hours). Before the snowy-icy rise, there is a gendarme with a 5-meter rock wall (set up belay). The snowy-icy ridge goes up like a sickle. Move along the left part of the ridge. In the lower part, there is snow on the ridge, which

в. АКТРУ, east wall, 4A cat. dif. (according to the report on the first ascent, Tsybkin L.P., July 1959) Approach from GMS Aktru through the Uчитель pass to the Kuрумду gorge. Crossing the Kuрумду icefall:

• Crossed from the right along the edge of the rocks в. Kuрумду in teams.
• Time to cross the icefall — 1 h. Overnight stay on the scree under the wall в. Актру. Time from GMS Aktru to the overnight stay — 7 h. The route to the summit goes along the rocky ridge, divided by snow and ice sections into five rocky islands. The height of the wall — 800 m.

Traverse Korumdu - Aktru 4A cat.

Approach from Aktru base in Ak-Su gorge - 3 - 2.5 hours. The beginning of the route is the exit to the ridge of the Korumdu massif (orographic left ridge in the Ak-Su valley). Recommended exit to the ridge at the border of the greenery with the scree. Movement along the 2-kilometer destroyed scree ridge with numerous small gendarmes is not difficult and does not require insurance. There are at least three places for overnight stays on the ridge (with platforms for tents). The penultimate gendarme on the rocky part of the ridge is overcome along a crack with hook insurance (1 rope). After bypassing the last gendarme, there is a descent to the left to a small blue lake, after which the main, complex combined part of the route begins. At the lake, at the subsequent two snow-ice pockets of the ridge, there are convenient places for overnight stays. The main ice ascent (4 ropes - 40°) is overcome with a slight traverse to the right. In the left part, rockfall is possible from the rocks located above, even in the morning hours. After exiting onto the snowy ridge and a short ice ascent (1 rope) - exit to the firn field of the ridge, approaching from the right. Further movement is to the left: first along the snow, then along the steep firn (3 ropes). A relatively small rocky gendarme is bypassed on the right, then: