27. Terskolak via the Western Ridge (Category I, route 1B, Figs. 2, 7). The path from Terskol village to the end of the moraine is described in Route 26. From here, turn right and ascend up-left along the grassy slope and scree to the saddle of the Western Ridge of Terskolak peak. From the saddle, turn right and ascend along the simple rocks of the ridge:

• Traverse the 1st gendarme along the simple rocks of the destroyed ridge. There is a cairn on the gendarme.
• Descend from the gendarme along the simple rocky ridge to the connecting ridge under the 2nd gendarme.
• From the connecting ridge, ascend 30 m along simple smooth rocks to the first ascent of the 2nd gendarme.
• Then, ascend along rocks of moderate difficulty with a 3-meter wall to the 2nd gendarme.
• From it, a simple descent to the connecting ridge under the 3rd gendarme.
• From here, ascend 40 m along the simple rocks of the ridge and reach the foot of the rocky ascent of the 3rd gendarme.
• Bypass the ascent on the left via wide ledges and destroyed rocks (belay!).

Peak 3200.0 (Terskolak Zapadny) Route: via the southern edge Category of complexity — 4B cat. dif. (rocky) Leader: V. Babkin Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye, Terskol gorge Section in KMGV — 2.4. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3200.0 (Terskolak Zapadny) "via the southern edge 4B cat. dif. (rocky)". At the mountaineering event of the Higher Mountain School "School of Mountain Training of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation" in 2012. Region: Kabardino-Balkarian Republic. Dominant country: Central Caucasus Gorge: Terskol. Ridge: dominant massif: southeastern spur of Elbrus "Terskolak - TersakItkolbashi". Peak: 3200.0 m (Terskolak Zapadny). Route: via the southern edge. Level of complexity: 4B cat. dif. (rocky).

THE GROUP'S ROUTE ALONG THE NORTH. SLOPE AND WEST. RIDGE. ROUTE ALONG THE WEST. RIDGE CATEGORY 1B difficulty. GENERAL PHOTO OF THE SUMMIT. (Taken on December 15, 2015 from the ridge between the observatory and the 105th checkpoint)

Report

On the ascent to the summit 3580 m (Terskolak 1st Western) via the South counterfort of the Western ridge — first ascent, Category III complexity

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Terskol gorge, section number according to the 2013 classification table 2.4 from the Chipperazau pass to the Gumachi summit
2. Summit Terskolak 1st Western (3580 m) via the S. counterfort of the W. ridge
3. Proposed Category III complexity, first ascent
4. Route type: rock
5. Height gain 680 m, length 1160 m (according to altimeter). Length of sections with Category 4 complexity — 65 m, sections with Category 3 complexity — 210 m. Average slope of the route 36°, main part — 45°.
6. Number of protection elements used: 23
7. Time taken: 6 hours, 1 day

Report

on the first ascent of Terskolak N.W. via the northern slope and western ridge, approximately category 2B

Ascent Details

1. Region of ascent, section number — 2. Caucasus according to the Classification Table 2013 — 2.4. from Chiperaza pass to Gumači peak
2. Name of the peak, its height — Terskolak N.W. (3790 m) name of the route
   • via N slope and W ridge
3. Proposed — category 2B first ascent
4. Nature of the route: — combined

Ascent Passport Terskolak (NW) 2B, via S slope and W ridge

Table of Contents

• APPROACH
• ASCENT — start
• ASCENT — glacier
• ASCENT — gendarme
• ASCENT — wall
• DESCENT
• ROUTE SECTIONS TABLE
• APPENDIX 1