Сейсмологов

Glacier3.36 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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First ascent on p. Thälmann (5970 m) by its Southwest Ridge, grade 3B, led by Komarova N.

Ascent Passport

I ascent class — first ascent. 2 Ascent area — Bivachny glacier. 3 Peak — p. Tel'mana (40 let Oktyabrya). Height — 5970 m. Ascent route — southwest ridge with a saddle between p. 5970 and 5700 m. 4 Assumed difficulty category — 3B. 5 Route description:

  • Elevation gain — 800 m
  • Average slope — 40–50°. Driven pitons: rock protection — 10 pcs. Duration: 7 hours. Number of nights and their characteristics: one overnight under the route on the glacier moraine. Surname and initials of the leader, participants and their qualification:
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Description of the first ascent of Peak Thelmann (5970) via the West Ridge by the team of the Ukrainian council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society in 1978.

Report

On the first ascent to Pik Tельмана (5970) via the Southwest ridge from the Bivachny glacier by the team of Ukr совет ДСО «СПАРТАК» consisting of:

  • Komarov N.P. (team leader)
  • Denisenko P.N.
  • Ladnushkin V.M.
  • Starodub O.V.
  • Sulimovsky N.V. [^0]
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Description of the first ascent route to the summit 5970 (40 let Oktyabrya) via the north-eastern counterfort, grade 4A, Pamir, Darvaz range.

Climbing category — B/technical. Climbing region — Pamir. Darvaz Range. Peak, its height, route — p. 5970 (40 let Oktyabrya), height 5970 via N.E. spur. First ascent. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A. Route characteristics: height difference — 1250 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 240 m. Average steepness — 50°. Pitons hammered: rock ( закладки ) — 50, ice — 44. Number of travel hours — 18. Number of nights and their characteristics — one, cut out in ice. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants and their qualification:

  1. Efimov S. — MS
  2. Lavrukhin V. — MS Team coach: — Efimov S. Date of departure and return — July 14–15, 1978. Dushanbe — 1978

Scheme of l. Bivachny area

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