Traverse from Molodezhnogo Pass to the peaks of Molodezhnaya and Kosmodemyanskaya (2A) The description of the beginning of the route from the initial bivouac to the summit of Molodezhnaya is given above. The route continues from the small eastern elevation of the Molodezhnaya summit. Having descended from it about 100 m to the southwest, traverse the rocky ridge and climb up the couloir to the saddle between the Molodezhnaya summit and the Kosmodemyanskaya peak. At the beginning of summer, the saddle is snowy, at the end - ice is exposed. The first group of rocks should be bypassed on the right, the second - on the left. The next stage of the route is going around the rocks on the west side of the ridge of the summit, then along the couloir and further up the broken rocks to rise under the gendarme. Having organized piton belay, traverse it on the west side. The ascent from the saddle to the summit tower goes first along a 6-meter slab with a steepness of up to 55°, then traverses the wall for 15–20 m towards a steep chute. The most difficult section of the wall is at the very beginning, where you have to go around the outer corner by wedging your hand and foot into a shallow crevice. There are no cracks to ensure piton belay. The walls and chute are covered with snow for most of the season, and by the end of the season, flow ice forms on them. Having descended from the tower along the ascent path, exit to the south ridge and from it down a narrow steep chute up to 10 m long to the beginning of the couloir. Traverse the couloir and the slabs lying behind it in the southeast direction, then cross one of the rocky ridges separating the numerous couloirs on the eastern side of the summit.

Youthful 2B cat. diff. via North slope

Description of the route. From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny Glacier, exit onto the glacier and move towards the rock outcrop on the northern slope of the peak. Move along the northern slope to the right (over ice) of the rock outcrop, in teams, wearing crampons. Depending on the condition of the slope, one can move simultaneously or with alternating belays. The first 150–200 m are overcome directly upwards, here the slope steepness is 25–30°, then it increases to 50°, so piton belays are used (2–3 pitons). Then a short traverse to the right, along small crevices. After 50–60 m, ascend a small flattened area, where many crevices up to 1 m wide are encountered. At the end of the section, near a driven ice piton, there is a control cairn. From here:

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area
2. Northern Tian-Shan, 7.2. 251 Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, Maloalmatinskoye gorge, Tuyuk-Su.
3. Molodezhnaya peak 4147 m, via the "knife" on the left part of the North wall
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B. First ascent.
5. Route character — ice and snow.
6. Elevation gain — 500 m.
7. Route length — 1000 m.
8. Used on the route: ice screws — 48, rock pitons and protection elements — 0, bolt pitons — 0.

Molodezhnaya 1B cat. sl. via Molodezhny pass, descent along the NE ridge

Description of the route. The fan-shaped Molodezhnaya peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Malo-Almatinsky spur (between the eponymous pass and the peak named after Kosmodemyanskaya). Its southwestern slope is covered with powerful scree, while the northeastern slope is covered with snow and ice. The massif of the peak and its northeastern ridge are the main source of nourishment for the 2.5 km long, 2 sq. km Molodezhny glacier. From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the glacier:

• Cross the ramparts
• Reach the glacier slightly above its tongue
• Move along the middle of the glacier to the foot of the slope of the Molodezhny pass (3735 m) The slope is snowy, with exposed ice areas at the end of the season, with a steepness of 30–35°. From here, begin the ascent to the ridge straight up, orienting towards a group of rocks; it is not recommended to go to the left — it can trigger an avalanche. The ridge leads to the so-called "chicken breast" — a steep section of snow or ice, which is overcome with piton belay (2 ice screws) along the fixed ropes or bypassed along the rocks. The length of the section is about 40 m, with a steepness of up to 50°. Beyond the "chicken breast" is the exit to the shoulder of the peak — a small snow plateau; from here, the ascent to the peak follows snow and a gentle, fine scree. The peak is a wide snow plateau with the remains of a destroyed ridge, on which a cairn is built. Descent along the northeastern ridge. The encountered gendarmes are easily bypassed. Insurance is sometimes necessary. Having reached the two-pronged gendarme, one can:
• release the main ropes