№214
Route Description: СВ гребню
SSummitMateAscent description of Peak Paustovskogo via the North-Eastern ridge, 3A difficulty grade, with route details and assessment of the climbing potential of the area.
4.2.156
Description of the ascent to Peak Paustovsky via the north-eastern ridge
We reach the Paustovsky glacier via moraine. The glacier cirque is bounded by a very steep rocky-ice wall. The upper part of the glacier is steep and gradually turns into the wall. Crampons are necessary here, and the last 30 meters require step cutting. We reach steep rocks in the right part of the wall. The wall has an overall steepness of about 75°. It consists of two sheer sections, each 30 meters long. The rocks are heavily destroyed, requiring piton belay. Beyond the rocks, a steep ice ascent begins. It is overcome with crampons and leads to the saddle between Peak Paustovsky and the Viewpoint peak. After ascending the north-eastern ridge, one should:
- traverse a steep snowy slope to the left;
- move to the eastern ridge of the summit. We traverse 250 m of easy to medium rocks and reach the pre-summit plateau. The ascent to the summit is made from the left along easy rocks and snow. Descent is via the Viewpoint peak. The entire route from the start of the moraine and descent takes about 10 hours. The group requests to evaluate the route as category 3A.
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMate### Ascent Description Climbing Peak Paustovsky via the North Ridge, category 3A difficulty, duration 10-12 hours.
4.2.154
Description of the ascent to Peak Paustovsky via the North Ridge
We reach the Paustovsky glacier moraine. The lower part of the glacier is flat and crevasse-free. One should head towards a large rocky outcrop that ends in the north ridge. Then:
- Ascend via ledges and steps with careful belaying, deviating slightly left.
- Be aware of loose rocks.
- In the upper part, a snow cornice is bypassed on the left. The path along the rocky outcrop leads to the ridge. Here, a large snow plateau with a slope to the right opens up. After traversing 80–100 m, we reach the snow ridge, which should be traversed wearing crampons. The ridge ends at a gendarme. The ascent to the gendarme begins with a steep ice slope. About 2/3 of the way up, there's a rocky outcrop. Belaying is done using an ice screw. The slope's steepness is 60–70°, and it's ascended by cutting steps.