ლაპა

The traverse of the Kikchinekol peaks (eastern and western) is a challenging route that includes glaciers, steep slopes, and rocks, requiring specialized equipment and precise timing.

Chyornye Bashni Peak — 3550 m Traverse in both directions — category 3A From the Uzunkol alpine camp, follow the left bank of the Kichkinekol River to the stream flowing from the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier. To the left of the stream, ascend to a large lateral step — "ice overnight stays". From here, ascend via a grassy couloir and then along a steep grey moraine to the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier plateau. Cross the plateau to approach the slopes of the Kichkinekol pass. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund (belay!), cross via a bridge closer to the slopes of Filtr Peak, and then continue up the snowy slope (150 m up to 45°, belay!) to a short scree slope and ascend to the pass. From the pass, descend south and cross the Zamok glacier plateau to approach the 1st terrace of the Chungur glacier from the left. With a slight gain in height, traverse to the middle part of the Chyornye Bashni glacier. Cross the glacier towards the buttress of the eastern peak. Ascend to the right of the icefall via a somewhat indistinct ridge (avoid the lower part of the buttress — rockfall!) and reach the plateau. From the Kichkinekol pass to the plateau — 2–2.5 hours. The ascent to the eastern peak (rope teams!) begins from the plateau via the southeast ridge. Ascend via snow to a snowy saddle in the ridge and then upwards via slabs — belay! Rockfall! Reach the peak via a snowy slope to the right CORNICES!! From the plateau to the peak — 1–1.5 hours. Descend from the eastern peak to the right via a snowy ridge to inclined slabs and a sheer wall. Here, set up a 25 m sport descent via the wall with a chimney. Belay! After descending to an inclined snowy ledge and along it to the right towards the ridge. Descend via a steep ridge — belay! — to the col between the eastern and western peaks. From the eastern peak to the col — 3–3.5 hours.

Traversing the Kichkinekol peaks (Eastern and Western) from north to south via the Kichkinekol Pass.

Route Description Ascent to Kichkinekol Pass via the "Zamok from Burevestnik Pass" route. Descend from the pass down simple snowy slopes onto the Zamok glacier plateau. Cross the glacier leftwards, ascending along the flat section in separate steps towards the base of the Eastern peak's buttress, visible throughout the approach. From here, to the right of the icefall, follow a faintly defined snowy ridge (rocks on the right!) to reach the upper plateau below the eastern ridge of the peak. From Kichkinekol Pass - 2 hours 30 minutes. Ascend the ridge from the plateau to a snowy col, then continue up the slabs to the Eastern peak (overhanging cornices on the right!). From the Eastern peak, follow the snowy ridge rightwards to inclined slabs and a sheer wall. Descend the wall with a chimney for 25 m, reach an inclined snowy ledge, and follow it rightwards onto the ridge. Descend a steep ridge to a col. From the Eastern peak - 3 hours. Along the col's ridge, approach a gendarme composed of large blocks (proceeding head-on). From the gap behind the gendarme, ascend the right side of a 15-meter wall (avoiding the corner - loose rocks!), then follow the ridge and a series of short, steep chimneys to reach the Western peak. From the col - 1 hour 30 minutes. Descend from the Western peak along the ridge to a col with a rocky "finger", then move to the southern side of the ridge. Traverse the peak from the south, reach a bifurcating ridge, and descend along its right branch onto the Zamok glacier plateau; then ascend to Kichkinekol Pass. From the Western peak - 3 hours. The traverse is possible in the opposite direction; When descending from the peaks, check the snow condition on the slabs!

Ascent to Sanen-Bashi (3500 m) from Sanen-Dalar pass, category 2B difficulty, with route description and recommendations for climbers.

Saken-Bashi Ascent to the summit of Saken-Bashi (3500 m) from Saken-Dalar Pass — Category 2A difficulty. From Uzunkol Alpine Camp, follow the right bank of the Myrdy River to the beginning of the Myrdy Glacier moraine. Follow the trail and grassy slopes to a large terrace. The bivouac site is "Myrdy Nochevki". 3 hours from the camp. From the bivouac, go up to the right under the scree below the slopes of Kara-Bashi to the Myrdy Glacier. Traverse the middle part of the glacier and then follow the snowy slopes to Myrdy Pass. (Bypass the bergschrund on the left under the walls of Kirpich Peak). 1.5-2 hours from the bivouac. From the pass, traverse the plateau and a large rock fall above Saken-Dalar Pass. Follow the ledges on the left, descend to the snowy ridge of the pass, and then bypass (on the left) a separate rock — to a snowfield leading to the beginning of the ascent to the summit ridge. Follow the first left couloir (belay!): stay on the left side; 60 m, 45°; exit to the ridge (belay!). From here, follow the ridge and a wide slab (control cairn here) (belay!). Then follow a steep (belay!) snowfield, 45° — 40 m ascent to a simple rocky ridge. After a small depression in the ridge — ascent to the pre-summit ridge. Traverse heavily broken rocks (belay!) — to the summit. 5 hours from Saken-Dalar Pass.