Brief Description

Ascent route to p. "Носорог" (Rhinoceros Peak) via the northern ridge, category 2B From the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Hodja-Sang-Hok valley, on a grassy clearing under the slopes of p. 40 let Komsomola Tadzhikistana (40 Years of Komsomol of Tajikistan Peak) and per. Sang-Hok, first ascend via grassy and then snowy slopes to below per. Sang-Hok. Without reaching the pass, turn right and ascend the snowy slope leading to the ridge, then along the ridge to the right for 40–50 meters on easy rocks — exit onto a snowy plateau. From the plateau, via simple rocks at 35–40°, reach the ridge visible from the base camp as a "fence". Move along the ridge towards the summit. Bypass obstacle rocks and cornices on the left. After descending into a small depression, bypass a rock pinnacle on the right by descending on snow to a snowy shoulder. Having bypassed the pinnacle, ascend to the ridge via an inner corner for 40 meters at 45°. Then, for 60 meters, move along the inner corner of the ridge to the "Rog" pinnacle. From the "Rog" pinnacle, descend into a small depression and ascend to the summit via a snowy slope, bypassing the ridge on the left on snow. The descent from the summit is to the south along the ridge, then via simple rocks for 40–50 meters into a wide snowy couloir, which leads to a snowy plateau. An alternative descent is possible via the ascent route. The entire route is visible from the base camp and is logical. Recommended for camping and sports groups. A. Koshkin + 3 people, July 5, 1983, 300 m, 40°, 6 rock rings, 1 artificial aid, 8.5 hours.

Table of Main Characteristics of the Route

TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE to p. "Носорог" (Rhinoceros Peak) via the northern ridge, category 2B

up 539 n.24 of 24.04.84 2B km/h 5.2.3 Sanghok ASCENT REPORT. I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent area — Sang-Hok, Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, elevation, ascent route — Nosorog, 4100 m, via the northern ridge 4. Difficulty category — 2B (proposed by first ascensionists as 3A) 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 300 m. Average slope — 40° 6. Pitons for belays: Rock — 6, Bolted — , Nut — 1

Треугольный (4100) via W rib - 4A cat. 350, 45–50°, 30 m, 1, 20 pitches, 6 hours. Yu. Emelyanenko, T. Medvedeva 28/VII-83. Average steepness of sections R2–R10: 50–55°. Average steepness of sections R10–R20: 45°.

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to peak 4100 m (conditionally named peak Треугольный) via Western rib 4A cat.

• Summit elevation: 4100 m
• Conditional name: peak Треугольный
• Difficulty category: 4A

up 539 n 30 dated 24.04.84 4 A n/l cu ASCENT REPORT. 1. Ascent class — rock climbing. 2. Ascent area — Sanghok, Gissar Ridge. 3. Peak — p. 4100, proposed name by first ascensionists p. Treugolny (Triangular). 4. Ascent route — via the western edge. S ridge Proposed difficulty category — 4A. 5. Height difference — 350 m, average slope 45–50°. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 30 m. 6. Number of protection pitons — 20 rock pitons.