Ai-Petri (Main Peak) via South Ridge, Category 3B

R0–R1 To the right of the main couloir, ascend leftwards and upwards along an inclined ledge to the beginning of the south ridge. Access the south ridge via an 80-meter wall with very difficult rocks. Climb an 8-meter smooth wall by free climbing until a crack, then ascend using ladders and hooks. R1–R2 Continue rightwards into an internal corner, 7-8 meters, to a protruding cork, under which it is possible to set up an anchor. The protruding cork is overcome with the aid of:

• ladders,
• hooks,
• wooden wedges. Then, ascend 13-15 meters straight up along a crack that transitions into a crevice near a dried bush. This is a very challenging section. From the bush, ascend the crevice, then along an internal corner to access an inclined ledge. The ridge is 5-8 meters away. Here, it is possible to set up an anchor using a large pine tree. R2–R3 Continue along the ridge (rocks of medium difficulty, section length is 175 meters). Then, overcome 25 meters of medium-difficulty rocks along the ridge, bypassing the first and second sentinels on the left. Ascend a couloir to a saddle between a boulder and jagged peaks. The summit is 60 meters away.

Ai-Petri (main peak) via the central wall with traverse of the teeth, 5a cat. diff.

R0–R1: From the pine tree near the Hosta-Bash spring, a slanting earthy ledge with a pine tree growing out of it is visible. Ascend to the pine tree via moderately difficult rocks with ledges, then via a vertical 40-meter chimney (very difficult rocks, pitons). From the pine tree:

• 10 m right along the ledge,
• then up an inside corner for 25 m to another pine tree, with moderately difficult rocks. Then:
• move to a large slanting inside corner,
• ascend to a grotto (40 m), difficult rocks. The grotto overgrown with holdfast bushes remains on the right. 1-2

Alupkinskaya Wall, "Through the Grottoes" route, 5B, 290 m, VI, A2

The route was climbed in May 2013 by the team of Balabanov Nikita — Fomin Misha (Kiev). From the authors: initially, we planned to climb this route as a first ascent, however, starting from the grottoes, we found one or two old pitons on each rope pitch in the most difficult sections all the way to the yayla. That is, our ascent is at least the second one, and we did not find any information about the first. Therefore, we suggest naming the route "Through the Grottoes" — it reflects the distinctive feature of the entire route, and we hope that the unknown first ascenders would not be offended. The total time taken for the ascent was 16 hours. Alupkinskaya Wall, "Through the Grottoes" route, 5B, 290 m, VI, A2

Balchik-Kaya — 3. "Alighieri"

Massif: Balchik-Kaya Difficulty: 4B Authors: Lav­ri­nen­ko A., Maksimenko S. Year of creation: 2013 Number of pitches: 6 Length: 240 m Route description: Wall height difference is 180 m. Route length is 230–240 m. The wall is quite monolithic. R0–R1: 55 m. Up to the right, over easy terrain, reach an inclined grassy ledge (20 m II). Along the ledge leftwards and upwards, then via an easy inner corner (5 m II) up and leftwards to a second ledge. Along the ledge and easy terrain, leftwards and upwards towards a small deciduous tree. Belay station on the tree and on personal anchors. R1­–R2: 40 m. Upwards via a steep inner corner (10 m V). Further, the corner gradually eases, exit onto a ledge, then towards a pine tree (20 m IV, III). From the pine tree upwards and rightwards, via a slab, reach a small tree (10 m). Belay station on personal anchors. R2­–R3: 27 m. Upwards via a system of inner corners. The corners are overgrown with grass, some "hollow-sounding" blocks are encountered. Belay station before a small overhang on personal anchors (piton, placements). V+A1 R3­–R4: 30 m.

• Upwards, circumvent the overhang via a right-hand gap (10 m V)
• Exit onto a gentler slope, further upwards towards an inner corner, then via the corner (15 m VA1); a huge "hollow-sounding" slab is on the right
• Exit onto an inclined grassy ledge

Maly Kilse-Burun — 4

Via the central part of the southern wall through the spalled "Feather", 5A (Y — 40 m) (S. Brynza's itinerary, 1991)

The description of the ascent to the wide rocky ledge under the central part of the southern wall is given in route 3. The initial sections of this route coincide with route 3. On the R2–R3 section, first ascend the slabs to the counterfort, and then follow it (R1–R2: 20 m, 60°, II; 40 m, 75°, IV+). On the R2–R3 section — ascend simple rocks to an internal corner located to the right of a long and narrow spall ("Nashlyopka" or "Feather") (R2–R3: 20 m, 60°, I). On the R3–R4 section — ascend the internal corner, transitioning into a chimney, until you

Maly Kilse-Burun — 3. "Crisis"

Massif: Maly Kilse-Burun (638 m); Grade: 5A, VI, A3; Year of route creation: 2007; Number of pitches: 6; Length: 240 m; Time to complete: 7–9 h The route is located in the left part of the wall. A memorial plaque to climbers who perished on the mountain serves as a landmark for the start of the route. R0–R1. 45 m. From the plaque, first up, then diagonally from right to left along a thin crack, we exit to the base of a large flake. There is one intermediate bolts.

ASCENT PASS

1. Type — Rock climbing
2. Region — Crimea, Bati-Liman
3. Peak — Kush-Kaya
4. Route — Via the right section of the Southeast wall
5. Difficulty category — 2B
6. Route description: Elevation gain — 240 m, length — 280 m, average slope — 59°
7. Equipment used: Rock pitons — 4 pcs., chocks — 5 pcs.
8. Duration: Climbing time — 3 hrs, descent via trail — 0.5 hrs.
9. Leader: Vorobyev Mikhail Yuryevich

Kush-Ka­ya, Se­nokos route, 5B (M. Volo­sha­nov­sky — S. Nad­to­chiy)

The route was started on January 6, 1994, by Simferopol climbers S. Nadtochiy (Ter­ror­ist) and M. Voloshanovsky (Mi­shel). Completed in May 1994 by Ter­ror­ist solo. The perilous ropes hung until 1996, and in the upper part of the R3–R4 section, they still hang. The route is rarely climbed, and not everyone reaches the end. The route is a natural wa­ter­course, which is why from May to October the cracks are clogged with earth and grass, so Ter­ror­ist named his route "Se­nokos" (Hay­cut). In winter, the route is much more pleasant, but you still have to do some "gar­den­ing". The route starts 20 m to the right of the split, along which the first rope (not counting the ap­proach) of the "Pray­aya shtan­i­na" (Right pant leg) route 5B passes. Kush-Ka­ya, routes R0–R1: From the knocked-out piton arrow straight up along a thin crack for 10 m, then along a slab towards a bol­ted hook. From the hook to the left upwards, to a ledge under the over­hang. The over­hang is passed on the right side (there is a bolt). Sta­tion in a grot­to. 35 m 80° V+A2 R1–R2: From the sta­tion upwards along the left wall of the grot­to for 5 m on aid (bolt, sky­hooks), then by com­plex free climb­ing along the crack, exit to an over­hang. Through the over­hang on bolts, exit to the sta­tion. 30 m 85° VI A2

Merdven-Kaya — 3. “The Evil One”

Difficulty: 3B V. Year of route creation: 2008. Length: 220 m. Time to complete: 3–5 hours. Route description: Passes through the left part of the SW wall. The approach starts from where the dirt road goes under Hergiani Rock. Up the trail, bearing right, bypassing the rock, then through a couloir with some simple climbing, exit onto a large inclined grassy ledge. Up the ledge to the left. The start is along a steep corner from a small tree. Landmark — a bush in a diagonal crack. R0–R1, 45 m Up the inner corner to a dry tree, then along an inclined inner corner up to the left. Move along the left edge of the corner. Station on a juniper in the corner. Climbing:

• 10 m IV
• 35 m III R1–R2 50 m From the tree, continue up the corner to the left, climbing is not difficult. In the upper part, the corner is blocked by a “cork”, it is bypassed on the right, then traverse left, and up onto a horizontal ridge. Station on personal anchors.

Merdven-Kyasy. Khergiani — 3

Massif: Merdven-Kyasy (Khergiani) — 856 m, difficulty: 5B, author: Odoyev Vladimir, year of route creation: 2015, ascent time: 10 hours, ascent passport

1. Region: Russian Federation, Crimean Federal District, Oliva Urban-Type Settlement
2. Peak, route: peak Merdven-Kyasy 856 m, via the central part of the southern wall, route by V. Odoyev and K. Gostev “Pyany Ugol”.
3. difficulty category: 5B
4. Route type: rock
5. route length: 367 m