Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock-ice (combined)
2. Ascent region — Bezengi region, Kargashil ridge
3. Peak — Maly Salynan, height 4050 m
4. Ascent route — via the North Counterfort
5. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
6. Height difference — 720 m, length — 570 m, average slope — 40°
7. Pitons driven: rock — 10/0, ice — 17/0, chocks — 7/0
8. Number of travel hours — 13
9. Number of nights — route is one-day

117. Kayarta —

(combined route, category II, fig. 5, 13). The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4–20 people) to the Western Kayarta stream is described in route 106. Having crossed the stream, turn left and ascend a steep rocky slope on the right bank of the stream to its upper cirque above two waterfalls. Then:

• ascend along the right bank,
• then cross to the left bank,
• move along the left bank to the Western Kayarta glacier. On the left side of the glacier (closed crevasses), bypass the icefall. Above it, cross the glacier to the right and approach the left slope of the Western ridge of Kayarta peak. From the glacier, having passed the bergschrund, ascend to the Western ridge of Kayarta. From here, along a gently sloping wide snow-ice slope on the left side of the 450–500-meter Western ridge with a 20-meter ascent in the upper part, reach the summit of Kayarta. From the Tyutyusu gorge — 4–5 hours.

202. Kenchat via the North ridge (category 1B, A. Zyuzin, S. Katsnelson, A. Kaverin, F. Kompaneyets, L. Khodyush, August 7, 1938). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp along the Tyutyusu gorge to the stony plateau in the upper reaches of the Tyutyusu gorge is described in route 184. From the plateau, turn left and first go along the glacier, then along the gentle moraines and talus to reach the left branch of the unnamed glacier flowing from the Killar pass. This is the starting bivouac. From the last grove, it takes 6-8 hours. From the bivouac, exit to the left branch of the glacier and ascend to the upper snowy plateau along its right edge. On the plateau (many crevasses!), head towards the wide saddle of the ridge between the peaks of Orel on the left and Kenchat on the right. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund along a steep 120-meter ice-and-snow slope (rockfall hazard!), then ascend simple, destroyed rocks to reach the Killar pass saddle. Here, turn right and exit onto the North ridge of Kenchat peak. From here, the ascent follows the ice-and-snow ridge (cornices!). The 1st gendarme and, after an 8-10-meter snow bridge, the 2nd gendarme are overcome along the ridge. After the gendarmes, ascend along the snowy ridge with huge cornices, or along the heavily destroyed, simple rocks of its left slope (belay!). Then, ascend along the upper part of the snow funnel formed by the curved ridge. Further, ascend along the rocky-snowy ridge (cornices!) to reach the summit of Kenchat. From the pass, it takes 2-2.5 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. The duration of the route is 3 days. Additionally, bring 2-3 ice axes.

111. Kenchat via the North Ridge

(combined route, 2A cat. dif., fig. 5, 13) The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4–20 people) through the Tyutysu gorge to the rocky plateau in the upper reaches of the gorge is described in route 106. From the plateau, turn left and first follow the Tyutyu glacier, then traverse the gentle moraines and scree to reach the foot of the Northern branch of the Tyutyu glacier, which flows from the Kilar pass. Set up the initial bivouac here. It takes 4–6 hours from the last grove. From the bivouac, ascend to the Northern branch of the Tyutyu glacier and follow its right side to reach the upper snow plateau. Traverse the plateau (watch for hidden crevasses) to approach the saddle of the Kilar pass between the Kenchat peak on the right and the Oryol peak on the left. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund, then:

• ascend a steep 120-meter ice-and-snow slope (rockfall hazard),
• followed by straightforward traverse across broken rocks to reach the Kilar pass. The path from the Bashil tourist base to the Kenchat glacier is described in route 115. From the glacier, having traversed the bergschrund, ascend the ice-and-snow slope to the saddle of the Kilar pass between the Kenchat peak on the left and the Oryol peak on the right. At the pass, turn right (when ascending from Tyutysu) and reach the North Ridge of the Kenchat peak. Follow the ice-and-snow North Ridge (cornices, protection) to approach the first pinnacle, which is overcome directly via a 6–8-meter wall. Then traverse an 8–10-meter sharp snow ridge (cornice, protection) to approach the second pinnacle; ascend it via a 6–8-meter wall (protection). Continue ascending:
• along the partially sharp ice-and-snow North Ridge (large cornices),

Kichkidar via the Western Ridge, combined, 2A

Route Description:

The path from the "Ullutau" alpine base lies along the trail of the "Kullumkol" gorge, exiting to the "Nizhnie-Kichkidars" overnight camps on the Western Yunom-Su glacier, and then on to the "Nizhnee-Kichkidars" overnight camps. The journey takes 4-5 hours. From the "Verkhnee-Kichkidars" overnight camps, the path initially lies in the direction of the "Donkina" pass, with an ascent to the right part of the glacier and then towards the steep Western ridge. Approaching it, the glacier is heavily crevassed (travel strictly roped), we approach the right side of the ridge from the "Kichkidar" summit and ascend via ice and snow, bypassing the rocky wall at the base of the Western ridge and its first gendarme on the right. On the saddle, turn slightly right and then proceed along snowy slabs and, in places, steep rocks, heading towards the 2nd small gendarme; this is a control cairn. From it, upwards, bypassing the high gendarmes and walls on the left (belaying is mandatory), interspersed with snowy sections of the Western ridge, we reach the summit. The journey takes 4-5 hours. The descent from the summit follows the path of 2A cat. diff. to the "Zaitsev" To the "Verkhne-Kichkidarskie" overnight camps!