С стене
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateDescription of the passage of a 5B category difficulty route via the North-West wall of the Western shoulder of Peak A. Blok in the Pamir Mountains in 1988.
V. V. Mast. 1st sports category technical.
- Technical class.
- Pamir, Ak-Su valley.
- Western shoulder of A. Blok via north-west face.
- Difficulty category — 5B (second ascent).
- Height difference — 680 m. Distance — 1728 m, distance of sections 5–6 diff. cat. — 640 m, average steepness of main sections:
- Ice part — 60°
- Wall part — 80°
- Pitons hammered in:
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateTactics used by a team of climbers to ascend a mountain peak, including a detailed account of daily activities and technical aspects of navigating a challenging route.
PHOTO PANORAMA OF THE AREA. Taken on July 5, 1983 (II ch.); lens "Jupiter-37A", focus 135 mm; distance about 7 km, shooting point F4, height 4200 m.
Tactical Actions of the Team
July 18 Snow-ice couloir. No spontaneous rockfalls were observed, and there were no traces of stones under the couloir. Nevertheless, the group started the route in the dark to overcome the lower part of the couloir on firm snow and leave the couloir before the sun illuminated the northern slope of the mountain. Bashkirov and Khankevich worked ahead. The other participants moved along the rope, using the "chest-leg" method on many sections. They reached the shoulder by 15:00 - an excellent place for camping. July 19 Wall processing. To increase the pace of passage, two teams worked on the wall:
- In the first half of the day - Plotkin-Mikhaylov
- In the second half of the day - Bashkirov-Raboчих The descending team straightened the rope, removing unnecessary pitons, and then rested properly on the shoulder in a tent. July 20 Continuation of processing. The organization of work remained the same:
- First team - Khankevich-Mikhaylov