центру ЮВ стены
Route Description: центру ЮВ стены
Ascent of Pik Petrogradets via the south-eastern wall through a cleft; first ascent of category 6A difficulty route, made by a team of climbers in 1989.
Passport
- Technical class
- Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su gorge
- Pik Petrogradets (5164 m), via the center of the southeast wall through the spall.
- Assumed — 6A cat. tr. first ascent.
- Elevation gain: 960 m, length — 1160 m.
Length of sections with 5–6 cat. tr. — 640 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 74° (4200–5120 m), including 6 cat. tr.:
- 83° (4560–4600 m)
- (4700–4940 m)
- (5020–5060 m)
Route Description: центру ЮВ стены
Ascent log for Petrogradsky Peak (5163 m) via the center of the southeast wall, rated 5B difficulty, including the route's technical characteristics and recommendations for future climbers.
Ascent Log
Completed in the 1982 Leningrad City Alpinism Championship
- Ascent class: technical
- Ascent area: Pamir range, Turkestan range, AkSu valley
- Peak, its height, ascent route: Petrogradets 5163 m via the center of the "south-east wall"
- Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff. (rocky)
- Route characteristics: height difference 4200–5163 m (963 m), length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 490 m, sections with 5th cat. diff. — 395 m, sections with 6th cat. diff. — 95 m, average steepness 72°
- Pitons driven: for insurance, rock — 122, ice — 0, bolt — 0, chocks — 39; for creating artificial anchors, rock — 29, ice — 0, bolt — 0
- Number of climbing hours: 37 over 4 days
- Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: 3 overnight stays — shared (2 short lying, 1 — sitting)
Route Description: центру ЮВ стены
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Petrogradets (5163 m) via the center of the southeast wall, a 5-6 category complexity route, climbed by a group of climbers in 1982.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent Classification Technical 2. Ascent Area: Pamir range, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Petrogradets, 5163 m via the center of the southeast wall 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B (2nd ascent) 5. Route characteristics: height difference 4200 m – 5163 m = 963 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 490 m: 5th category — 395 m, 6th category — 95 m, average steepness 72° 6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 119, ice — 0, bolt — 0, placements — 42