центр. бастиону С стены
Route Description: центр. бастиону С стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent to Peak A. Blok (5239 m) via the central bastion of the northern wall, difficulty category 5⁵, made by a team of climbers in 1986.
Ascent Passport
- CLASS — technical
- Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge
- Peak A. Blok (5239 m) via the central bastion of the northern wall (route by group of S. Efimov)
- DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B, fourth ascent
- HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1039 m, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 583 m, 5th cat. diff. — 325 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS of the main part of the route — 80°
- NUMBER OF PITS: rock — 138 (31), bolt — 8 (53), chocks — 156, ice — 28 (9)
- CLIMBING TIME — 77.5 hours, days — 6. 1 day of preparation
- NIGHTS: four sitting and hammock bivouacs, one lying on a ridge
- LEADER: Oshé Eduard Andreevich, Master of Sports
Route Description: центр. бастиону С стены
SSummitMateDescription of a category 5B climbing route to the summit of A. Blok (5229 m) via the Central Bastion of the North Face in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay.
Ascent Passport
- Peak, its height, route: p. A. Blok, 5229 m, via the Central Bastion of the North wall.
- Area of ascent: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge.
- Difficulty category: 5B (participants recommend 6th cat. diff.).
- Route characteristics: length — height difference — average steepness of the route's wall section —
- Pitons hammered:
Route Description: центр. бастиону С стены
SSummitMateFirst ascent of a 6th cat. difficulty grade route via the north face of A. Blok Peak in the Turkestan Range, Ak-Su valley, by a team led by Sergey Efimov.
I. Technical class. 2. Turkestan Ridge. Ak-Su gorge. 3. Peak A. Blok via the central bastion of the North wall. 4. Assumed 6B, first ascent. 5. Height difference 710 m, length 800 m. Length of 6B sections — 500 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 78° (4500–5100 m). 6. Pitons driven: rock: 97/62, bolted: 11/11, nuts: 245/166, ice screws: 20/0 7. Team's total climbing hours: 57 (5 days) 8. Overnights: I–II in hammocks; III–IV — two in hammocks; V on a carved snow-ice ledge.