Rocks of medium difficulty, in some places it is necessary to use iron belay. The first pronounced gendarme is bypassed on the left along inclined shelves, then movement continues along the ridge. The second gendarme is bypassed on the right along a snowy-icy couloir with rocky exits, then movement continues along the right side of the ridge. The col - before the third gendarme is traversed (stonefall hazard, iron belay). From the col, descend down to the left side of the ridge: one rope on difficult rocks into a rocky-icy couloir. Cross the couloir, exit onto a snow patch to the left of the third gendarme. From the snow patch, down difficult rocks (chimney) - one rope down and along a snowy-icy slab to the foot of the third gendarme. Up the snowy-icy slab and the col between the third gendarme and the summit (stonefall hazard). From the col, exit into a wide couloir located to the right of the summit. Up the couloir to the pre-summit ridge - rocks of medium difficulty.

The Kok-Bel spur, stretching in the meridional direction, separates the Kshemish and Purovskogo glaciers. Ascents to the peaks located in the spur are made:

• from the east - from the Kshemish glacier,
• from the west - from the Purrovskogo glacier,
• as well as from the passes connecting these glaciers. The transition from the base camp under the Kshemish glaciers to the assault camp in the upper reaches of the Purovsko glacier takes about 7 hours. At the same time, it is necessary to cross the snowy pass of Puroveko roughly 2B cat. The path through the Kiroksan pass takes significantly more time.

Critical Caucasus

II. Peak (4600 m) from the Purovskogo pass 3B cat.:

• April 22, 1969 — I. G. Lobkin, A. K. Kuzminikh April 28, 1969 — V. E. Eskarov, V. O. Panov From the assault camp on the Purovskogo glacier, the ascent is to the left of the Purovskogo pass to a snowy saddle, separated from the pass by a large mandarin. From the saddle, the path goes along: