В гребню

Rock5,120 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Report on the ascent of Pik Energia via the Eastern Ridge, grade 4A, with a description of the route and details of the approach and descent.

Energy. 4A. Via the Eastern Ridge.

Table of Contents

From the author:

  • Passage log
  • Route in UIAA symbols
  • Approach description R0–R1. Start from the overnight stay on the Kaznok Pass — 7:00 R1–R2. At station R2 — 11:00 R2–R3 R3–R4
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Description of the ascent route to the summit "Energiya" (5125 m) via the eastern ridge in the Fann Mountains, difficulty category 4A.

  1. Class of ascent: technical.
  2. Area of ascent: Fan Mountains.
  3. Peak, ascent route: p. "Energiya" (5105 m), via the eastern ridge.
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A.
  5. Characteristics of the route. Height difference: 1063 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 55 m. Total length of the ridge horizontally: 2800 m. The route consists of three sections of varying difficulty: a) ridge 2–3 cat. diff. — average steepness 10°, horizontal length 1900 m; b) ascent 4–5 cat. diff. — average steepness 50°, horizontal length 500 m; c) pre-summit ridge 3 cat. diff. — average steepness 30°, horizontal length 400 m.
  6. 26 rock pitons were hammered on the route, 20 chocks were used — all for belays.
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