В гребню
Rock4А5,120 m
Route Description: В гребню
Report on the ascent of Pik Energia via the Eastern Ridge, grade 4A, with a description of the route and details of the approach and descent.
Energy. 4A. Via the Eastern Ridge.
Table of Contents
From the author:
- Passage log
- Route in UIAA symbols
- Approach description R0–R1. Start from the overnight stay on the Kaznok Pass — 7:00 R1–R2. At station R2 — 11:00 R2–R3 R3–R4
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Route Description: В гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit "Energiya" (5125 m) via the eastern ridge in the Fann Mountains, difficulty category 4A.
- Class of ascent: technical.
- Area of ascent: Fan Mountains.
- Peak, ascent route: p. "Energiya" (5105 m), via the eastern ridge.
- Estimated difficulty category: 4A.
- Characteristics of the route. Height difference: 1063 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 55 m. Total length of the ridge horizontally: 2800 m. The route consists of three sections of varying difficulty: a) ridge 2–3 cat. diff. — average steepness 10°, horizontal length 1900 m; b) ascent 4–5 cat. diff. — average steepness 50°, horizontal length 500 m; c) pre-summit ridge 3 cat. diff. — average steepness 30°, horizontal length 400 m.
- 26 rock pitons were hammered on the route, 20 chocks were used — all for belays.
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