Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent region: Pamir-Alay, Alayskiy ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. SAIV, 4650 m, via the eastern ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m average steepness — 50°, length of sections: 2nd cat. diff. — 500 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 360 m, 4th cat. diff. — 120 m 6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating RPS (Rappel and Intermediate Protection Points): rock — 38, ice — hammer-screw 7. Number of walking hours: 9 hours

Brief description of the route approach

From Dugoba a/l, follow the trail to the confluence of the Ak-tash and Ulitor rivers, then continue along the Ulitor river trail to the moraine campsite. Then, follow the trail through two moraine ascents to the campsite under the high rocky ridge. From the campsite, ascend the scree gully to the destroyed black rocks and then rightwards along the scree to the rocky slabs. This is the starting point of the route.

MAIN ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS TABLE

Date	Section	Avg. steepness, deg.	Length, m	Terrain type	Difficulty	Condition	Weather	Rop.	Ice	Pit.
25/VII–80 г.	R0–R1	45	160	Rocks	2	Broken	Clear	—	—	—
	R1–R2	30	140	Rocks	2	Broken	—	—	—	—
	R2–R3	40	240	—	3	Broken	—	II	—	—