1988 USSR Alpine Championship

High-altitude Climbing Category

Report on the Ascent to Khan-Tengri Peak (6995 m) via the Right Part of the North Face (First Ascent) by Team 12, SAVO Army Sports Club

www.alpfederation.ru All inquiries regarding the report should be directed to:

• City: Alma-Ata
• Postal Code: 480051
• Address: Army Sports Club, 12
• Position: Club Chief

To the Main Judging Panel of the 2005 Russian Federation Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Class

Report

On ascending to the summit of Khan-Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North face. Combination of routes: Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88. From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team, consisting of Tukhvatullin I. Kh. and Shabalin P. E., undertook the ascent.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, South Inylchek glacier, section 7.9
2. Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m, from the South Inylchek glacier via the center of the North face
3. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, combination of routes Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88.
4. Route type – combined

Passport

I. Altitude class. 2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. 3. Peak Khan-Tengri, 6995 m, via the right part of the north face. 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 2760 m, length — 3795 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 2260 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 59.5° (4235–6895), including 6B category of difficulty 70° (5400–6030), 70° (6330–6620). 6. Pitons driven:

Rock	Nuts	Ice screws	Bolts