Lou

Description of the 5A category difficulty route to Peak Svobodnaya Koreya (4740 m) via the central glacier-gully route on the southern wall.

PASSPORT Technical class. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge. Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) via the central ice couloir on the S wall. Difficulty category — 5A (reference). Height difference — 820 m, length — 1675 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 535 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chockstones | ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 20 / 0 | 0 / 0 | 5 / 0 | 60 / 0 |

**Ascent of M. Bashmakov's team to Svobodnaya Korea peak via the ice gully of the North face in Kyrgyz Ala-Too in 1984, first ascent of category 5B complexity.**

PASS I. Technical category Kirghizskiy Ala-Too, Ak-Sai valley Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the ice couloir on the North face, 4740 m Proposed 5B cat. of diff. first ascent Height difference 820 m, length 1580 m Length of sections with 5 cat. of diff. is 280 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 50° (4100–4600), no sections of 6 cat. of diff. Pitons driven: rock 20, bolt hangers 11, ice 80 Team's total climbing time 24 hours, days 2