З стене, траверс

Mixed4,245 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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The traverse of Nintau and Tapgars peaks in Trans-Ili Alatau, 5B difficulty category, was made by a team under the leadership of Yu.D. Cherepinsky in August 1978.

  1. Climbing area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge
  2. Peak — Galtvagar-po-otene-Idintaou. Traverse of Nintau Tapgars, ascent via W. wall of Nintau
  3. Presumed difficulty category — 5B
  4. Route characteristics:
  • height difference 1500 m.
  • length of sections with 5th diff. cat. — 435 m.
  • average steepness — 53°.
  1. Pitons used:
  • for creating artificial belays (i.t.o.) — 3 rock pitons
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### Ascent Route to Iiyintau Summit via the Cold Northwest Wall: A Detailed Analysis A detailed description of the ascent route to the summit of Iiyintau via the Cold Northwest Wall, including a thorough breakdown of sections and technical features.

Climbing Area Map

Profile, view from the southwest. Profile, view from the south. Profile, view from the southwest. TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE Note: Pitons used to create artificial holds are indicated by a fraction. From the Talgar alp camp, follow the trail up the Sredny Talgar River to the Severny Talgar glacier, then up the Severny Talgar glacier. Overnight at the moraine at the foot of the IyinTau slope.

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