USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1981

High-altitude technical class

Shakhdarin Range — Peak Luknitskogo (5800 m) via the center of the western wall (first ascent)

Team of the Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR

Leader: V.I. Lavrukhin. Coach: V.I. Galaktionov. Dushanbe — 1981 BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION AND SPORTS CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT OBJECT Peak Luknitskogo (5800 m) is located in the middle part of the Shakhdarin Range, in the main ridge, between the peaks 5962 m (Peak Soviet Youth) to the east and 6038 m (Peak Baikonur) to the west. From the summit, the following relief forms extend in different directions:

• To the northwest, a ridge descends steeply, dividing the northern valleys of the Seyj (with Luknitskogo Glacier) and Jarf (with Jarf Glacier) rivers.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: High-altitude technical 2. Ascent Area: Southwestern Pamir, Shakhdarin Range 3. Peak, its height: Peak Luknitskogo, 5800 m. Ascent Route: center — West Wall 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6 5. Route Characteristics: elevation gain — 1460 m, average steepness — 70°, route type — combined, section lengths: 6th cat. diff. — 525 m, 5th cat. diff. — 400 m 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, including for standing on (ИТО) rock — 280, ice — 21 (into ice), bolt — 6, chocks — 117 7. Total hours of climbing — 77.5 (including acclimatization day)

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