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SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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A description of the climbing route to Peak Musi Dzhamilya from the southeast, including path details, belaying, and necessary equipment.

The path from the saddle of the main ridge to the pre-summit tower takes 44.5 hours. From the pre-summit tower to the summit, there is a narrow snowy ridge (length 748 m), ending at a 6-meter snow cornice. The height from the ridge to the top of the cornice is 4 m. The insurance on this section is:

  • piton belay
  • through an ice axe The summit is a snowy plateau with cornices overhanging to the east and southeast. In the eastern direction, to the right of the ridge, there is a cornice with a thickness of more than 3 m and an overhang of 242.5 m. Descent from the summit is via the ascent route. The time for ascent and descent is 21 hours. Recommendations for climbers:
  1. Start on the route for sports groups no later than 5 am.
  2. Approximate equipment for a sports group of 4 people: 2. Main rope 30 m - 2 pcs. 3. Universal hammer - 1 pc.
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Description of the first ascent of Musа Dzhalil Peak via the eastern ridge in the Lenin Peak area in 1970.

Description

First ascent of Musa Jalil Peak, category 38, via the eastern ridge by the sports group of the 3rd Anniversary Alpinada of the Tatar ASSR in the Lenin Peak area. Group composition:

  1. Yagafarov V.P.
  2. Krylov V.N.
  3. Faseev K.S.
  4. Penkov G.A.
  5. Yagafarov I.K.
  6. Labutina T.E.
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