Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Category — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL

2. Ascent Area

CENTRAL PAMIR 3. Ascent Route with Indication of Peaks and Their Heights to peak "KOMAK DEMII" 6439 m via CENTRAL WEST WALL 4. Characteristics of the Ascent: height difference — 2150 m VERTICAL, 2640 m ROPE LENGTH, average steepness — 73°, length of complex section 820 m.

Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kabardino-Balkarian ASSR

Report

on the first ascent via the center of the Southwest face to peak "KOMAKADEMIYA" 6439 m, approximately 6B category of difficulty. CENTRAL PAMIR (region of the "Geographical Society" glacier) Coach and team captain, Honored Master of Sports of the USSR — Yu. POROKHNYA Nalchik September 5–20, 1975 ![img-0.jpeg]({"width":1651,"height":2333,"format": "Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/x8S3CPs7wa70kBDRuDtaMlrbwlIMSfaz/img-0.jpeg","id":64762345})

1. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the object of the first ascent. Brief description of the route conditions in the given area (remoteness from alpinist bases and means of communication, features of relief, weather conditions)

Peak "KOMAKADEMIYA" is located in the Central Pamir, in the southwestern part of the Fedchenko glacier, adjacent to the Academy of Sciences range in the area of peak "GARMO". This region is quite remote from populated areas; the nearest settlement, Vanch, from which one can communicate with any city by post and transport (airplanes, cars), is 80 km away from the main base camp near the Geographical Society glacier. Automobiles from the "Khrustalny" mine travel to this location. The name "peak 'Komaakademii'" appeared on maps compiled by surveyor Dorofeev based on surveys in 1938. In the same year, the first acquaintance of alpinists with the peak took place. An expedition led by N.V. KRYLENKO penetrated from the upper reaches of the Tanymas river to the Fedchenko glacier and "...was struck by two peaks of one mountain, which we," he writes, "from then on called the double-peaked one. They were higher than the others."