4-му кф. Ю гребня
Route Description: 4-му кф. Ю гребня
SSummitMateAscent to Unlpata peak via new ridge and fourth buttress, category 4B.
V. Uilpata via the fourth buttress of the South ridge, category 4B
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Route Description: 4-му кф. Ю гребня
SSummitMateDetailed guide to a combined 4B category route to the summit of Uilpata via Kioi Iyurin spur, including a thorough breakdown of the path and expert recommendations.
129. Vilpata. The Fourth Spure of the South Ridge
(combined route, cat. 4B) From Vilpata bivouacs (departure at 5:00) across the snowy plateau of the northern branch of the Tsey Glacier, cross the Vorobyev Glacier. At the base of the ridge descending to the northern branch to the right of the spurs of the South Ridge of Vilpata peak and to the left of the Vorobyev Glacier, turn right. Then ascend via a wide snowy couloir between the spurs of Vilpata on the left and a long ridge on the right framing the couloir. Here, turn left and exit onto the rocks on the right part of the spur. The entrance is via ledges going left-upwards. There are platforms under the wall. Bypass the wall on the right. Then, via moderately difficult rocks (200 m), exit onto a platform (cairn) under a vertical wall. About 3–4 hours from the bivouac. Bypass the wall on the left, behind it, and ascend to the fourth section. Via steep and moderately difficult monolithic sections, and broken rocks, reach under the second wall, which is bypassed via rocks above moderate difficulty on the right. Via steep and moderately difficult, broken rocks — to a platform under a "gendarme" with a black wall (at 16:00). Bypass the "gendarme" on the right. First, descend downwards for 15 m, then ascend upwards (60+30 m) with above-moderate difficulty. Then, via a couloir, exit onto rocks under the next wall. There are platforms for an overnight stay. Bypass the wall on the right and then via easy and moderately difficult rocks on the left side of the spur — ascent to the South Ridge, where the paths from R1–R3 converge (19:00). Convenient platform for an overnight stay. Then, via easy rocks under a "gendarme" of the South Ridge. Bypass the "gendarme" on the left. There was ice at the entrance. (Crampons necessary.) Then, via a 150–200-meter snowy ascent, exit onto the summit of Vilpata.