3 гребню
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateAscent to Khan Tengri peak via the classic route at the junction of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and China borders.
V. Karaugom Western via Western Ridge, Cat. 4A
BIG CL.
WEST CL.
R0–R12 500 m 35° 2B
R12 60 m 35° 3B
WESTERN R13–R20 300 m 35°–40° 3B
R20–R22 80 m 45°–50° 4B
R22–R23 50 m 40° 3A
R23 120 m 35°–40° 2B
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateAscent to Khan-Tengri peak via the classic route, path description, key challenges, and necessary preparations for climbers.
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateDescription of a 4A category difficulty route on the Western edge of the peak Zapadny Kar, including approach details, key sections, and descent features.
"Bikaravgom Zapadny" Route via the West Ridge
(combined, 4A cat. diff.) The path from the KSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga to the starting point on the platforms of the West Ridge of Bivuchnaya peak. From the bivouac (departure at 2-3 am due to rockfall in the couloir and the length of the route):
- Cross the Karaugom plateau.
- Move along the wide snow-ice couloir descending from the saddle between the peak and the West Gendarme.
- From the plateau, ascend 50-70 m up the snowy slope of the wide couloir to the bergschrund.
- Overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge.
- Ascend 250-300 m along the left side of the wide, steep snow-ice couloir (possible rockfall — prepare equipment).
- Reaching the foot of the rocky walls of the West Gendarme, traverse 100-120 m along the couloir beside the rocks on the right side of the gendarme (rockfall onto the saddle of the West Ridge — cornice — is possible on the right).