.

DUPLICATE NORTH PEAK B

VIA EAST RIDGE R15: 20 m 40° 3 RIDGE R14–R15: 80 m 80° 5 WALL R13–R14: 80 m 60° 4 RIDGE R12–R13: 150 m 70° 1 RIDGE, ICE R11–R12: 100 m 70° 4 RIDGE R10–R11: 60 m 30° 3 RIDGE R9–R10: 50 m 80° 5 WALL

NORTH PEAK DOUBLE 5A

VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE SOUTH NORTH R15 R14 R13 R12

From the overnight stay on the Tsейский glacier plateau below Mazа Dublyor peak, the route goes in the direction of the Northeast Ridge. Approach the ridge from its left side, through the bergschrund in the area of the avalanche gully, onto the snowy slope. Up the slope (40 m) to a rocky outcrop. Along the rocky outcrop on snow (120 m) to the right into the first couloir. Cross the second avalanche gully and on snow (60 m) to the rocks. On rocks of medium difficulty to the ridge beyond the first "gendarme". Traverse over the ridge to the shoulder — the first control cairn. From the cairn along the ridge, bypass a small "gendarme" on the left (possible to bypass on the right — 1 piton) to the wall. Up the wall (40 m, 80°). The wall rocks are heavily destroyed (rockfall hazard — piton belay). The wall initially traverses right and up (30 m), then straight up to the second large "gendarme". Further on the steep, crumbly ridge (120 m) to the wall. Up the wall (45–50 m) to the third "gendarme" (the wall of the "gendarme" has a large number of holds and "live" rocks, piton belay). From the "gendarme", descend along the snowy ridge, abutting the pre-summit wall. The steepness of the ridge is initially 25–30°, at the top up to 70° (belay via ice axe and ice screws). Along the ridge, initially keeping away from the cornice, then to the right (90 m), and then straight up under the rocks. The entire ridge is 250–300 m. Up the roc- (over 80 m) / to the pre-summit wall. Wall-