Between July 30 and August 7, 1966, the LOS DSO "Trud" team (team of the A. N. Krylov CRI) consisting of:

1. PUGACHEV A. D. — Master of Sports, leader
2. PUSHKARSKY V. I. — 1st sports category, participant
3. ANTONOVSKY D. I. —
4. MANOILOV Yu. S. — completed the traverse of p. Pushkin — East Mijirgi. On p. Pushkin, the group ascended for the first time via the left counterfort of the southern wall. Peak Pushkin (5100 m) is a small gendarme in the Northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks Zapadnaya Mijirgi (4922 m) and Dykh-Tau (5198 m). Its southern side is a ruined rocky massif intersected by deep snow-and-ice couloirs. The presence of counterforts and sheer sections allows for interesting and logical ascent routes to any part of the Dykh-Tau — Mijirgi ridge, including Peak Pushkin. The difficulty of the proposed routes from the south to p. Pushkin, according to the participants of this traverse, lies within 4B–5B category. It should be noted that there are existing classified routes of 5A category to Dykh-Tau and Zapadnaya Mijirgi from the south. The proximity to these most popular peaks and, perhaps, the difficulty of the descent may explain the lack of ascent routes to p. Pushkin until recently. Although the southern wall of p. Pushkin has been featured several times as an ascent object in the USSR alpine climbing championships (e.g., in 1962, the LOS DSO "Trud" team submitted one of the ascent options to p. Pushkin from the south), the first route to this peak was only completed in July 1966 by Gorevsky's team (LOS DSO "Trud"). The ascent to p. Pushkin from the south via the left counterfort, made during this traverse, is the second such route. Below is a description of the ascent route to p. Pushkin.

Tactical plan and organization of the ascent

Route Description

First ascent to p. Pushkin (5100 m) on the southern wall (approximately 56 k.tr.) Group a/l "Bezengi" under the leadership of Gorevsky N.N.

Route Description

From the camp along the trail or through the middle of the Bezengi glacier to the so-called "Austrian camps", then through the "sickle-shaped moraine" by the usual path leading to the Sella pass, to the plateau under Pushkin Peak. From the camp 8–9 hours. The wall of Pushkin Peak, in its lower part, is a triangle dissected by a narrow vertical couloir. The height of the lower part of the wall is about 700 m. The route passes along the right side of the wall. The beginning of the route goes along a snowy slope, to the right of the avalanche chute, through the bergschrund, and then along rocks of the "sheep's forehead" type to the base of an inclined shelf leading upwards to the right. Further along the shelf to its end (8 ropes). The shelf ends with a snowy slope going into the couloir. Without entering the couloir:

• straight up the icy rocks (2 ropes);