С ребру
Route Description: С ребру
SSummitMateITMO SportClub team ascends the Eastern and Western Mizhirgi peaks via the North Edge with the first ascent of the lower rocky bastion wall.
Technical Data
- Climbing Area Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge
- Peak
- East Mizhirgi 4950 m
- West Mizhirgi 5050 m
- Route
- Ascent to the North Edge via the wall of the lower rocky bastion (first ascent)
- Along the North Edge to East Mizhirgi via Pelevin's route
- Ascent to West Mizhirgi
Route Description: С ребру
SSummitMateDescription of a group's ascent of Mihirghi Peak (5027 m) via the north edge in 1962, complexity category 5B.
Ascent Description
TO THE SUMMIT OF V. MIZHIRGI VIA THE N. RIDGE. Completed by the MGS DSO "Trud" gathering group. July 27 – August 1, 1962. The Mizhirgi peak (5027 m) is located in the Bezengi region of the Central Caucasus, at the center of one of the most complex ridges — Koshtan-Tau — Dykh-Tau. The north ridge ascending to the eastern summit of Mizhirgi from the Cheget-Mizhirgi glacier was first climbed by a Pelevin group in 1952. The ridge drops off towards Krumkol with a vertical rock wall, and towards Dykh-Tau with steep and avalanche-prone slopes. In the lower third, its steepness is around 70°, the remaining part is an icy ridge (40–60°) with several steps in the form of rock cliffs. The key sections of the route are the ridge exit and the pre-summit wall. The route is classified as 5B category difficulty. The MGS DSO "Trud" gathering group completed this ascent from July 28 to 31, 1962, with the following team members: Cheremisov V. 1st sports category — leader Tkachenko A. 1st sports category — participant Petiforov V. 1st sports category — participant Daruga V. 2nd sports category — participant