СВ стене С ребра
Mixed5Б4,689 m
Route Description: СВ стене С ребра
SSummitMateA description of the ascent route to the Krumkol peak via the North-Eastern spur, including details on passage, belaying, and recommended equipment.
see the next stage of the icefall in description 18. There's a bivouac on the moraine. From "Bezengi" Alpine camp it's 3–4 hours.
From the bivouac (in rope teams? and with crampons!) along the glacier towards the left wall of the North-Eastern counterfort of the Krummkol summit:
- Uphill on a not too steep snowy slope to the bergschrund
- Behind it - up a steep 500-meter ice-snow slope, ascending left of rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads" of the first rocky ascent to the first steep slanting ice-snow slope
- Up the slope 70–80 m straight up to the second rocky ascent
- Under the ascent wall - on ice with several exits to simple rocks 150–170 m up-right (piton belay!) to the ice-rock couloir and up it to the rocky shelves
- From the shelves 80–100 m up rocks of medium difficulty with ice sections (piton belay!) ascent to the second rocky ascent
- From the ascent - up the second steep ice slope to under the wall of the third rocky ascent
- Under the wall - up-right on the ice slope, after 160–180 m exit to a rocky shelf, and up-left on rocks of medium difficulty to a platform
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