СЗ гребню
### Climbing Route Overview: Mount Kommuna (3442 m) in Prielbrusye This guide provides a detailed description of the ascent route to the summit of Mount Kommuna (3442 m) in the Prielbrusye region. It covers preparation, key stages, and essential information for mountaineers.
1. Kapkasheva peak
Komisan pass ↓ route 4A 4–5 Pikh XXVII Congress to ZSShS-SB glacier
Route Description: СЗ гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the 4A category complexity route to the peak Kankoshev via the north-west edge, including details of the passage and technical features.
Peak Kankosheva via NW Edge — Category 4A
From the overnight stay behind the moraine of the Dumala glacier, the glacier is crossed towards the northwest (right) ridge of Peak Kankosheva. The exit to the ridge is on the right, bypassing the first large "gendarme" along the ice-snow slope (30–40°) and across the scree into the gap behind the "gendarme". Further movement is along the ridge:
- on its left side, along the ledges;
- using outcrops and rock pitons for belaying (2–3 ropes). The further path is strictly along the ridge. The rocks are of medium difficulty, with short complex walls encountered in places. After 3–4 ropes, the ridge turns into a narrow sharp "knife-edge", movement is possible:
- either to the right of the ridge along the slab, holding onto the sharp ridge,
- or astride the ridge — 1–1.5 ropes. The ridge abuts against a sheer wall 10–12 m (the key point of the route). To the left, the wall is dangerous to bypass due to heavily destroyed needle-like rocks; to the right, stones and avalanches come down the couloir. The wall must be overcome head-on. The upper part of the wall overhangs, with no holds. It is advisable to use ladders to overcome the wall. Another 2 ropes of difficult climbing lead back to the ridge, which goes: