С гребню

Mixed3,930 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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### Ascent Route to Peak Kankoshev via Southwest Ridge, Category 4A Details the ascent route to Peak Kankoshev following the southwest ridge, classified as category 4A difficulty, including specifics on the path and safety measures.

Peak Kankosheva via NW ridge - 4A

Route description. The route starts from the moraine fields below KOSHTAN Pass; a snow-ice slope with an angle of 30 to 40° on the right - a total of 3 pitches over 40 m leads to a gap in the ridge behind the final ascent of the ridge. Then, exit onto the ridge via moderately difficult rocks and then easy, broken rocks - 2 pitches. Belays via outcrops. Along the ridge, 2 pitches on rock and ice, to the right. The rocks are slab-like, moderately difficult. Exit to the first ascent is 0.5 pitches via slabs and ice (pitons). Steepness is 45°. The ascent is a 60° wall with cracks, climbed directly from the left - 1 pitch or bypassed on the right - 1.5 pitches on ice with piton belays on rock. Ice steepness is 40-45°. Exit up and left onto the ascent via steep slabs resembling "sheep's foreheads" - 0.5 pitches. No outcrops, few handholds. Overnight stay possible at the ascent. Total of 4 hours from the start of the route. Then, the ridge ascent continues - moderately difficult rocks with outcrops, steepness 40-45°, total of 2-2.5 pitches. Then, a 5 m triangular wall is bypassed on the right, belays via outcrops. Steep slabs are climbed via ledges and cracks (pitons). Then, the ridge becomes steeper with 2-4 m walls bypassed on the right and left via ledges and slabs covered in ice. Yellow blocks - pylons cross the ridge and are bypassed on the right via wall ledges in traverse with exit onto the ridge - 2.5-3 pitches. Total of 3 hours of climbing.

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