В кф.
Route Description: В кф.
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Drakta via the Southwest Counterfort, category of complexity 3B, summit elevation 6,670 m.
Djangi (N) 5A to N. col.
665 15. Solorosinov + U.
1500, 65°, 63 cm.
from the plateau ker
2.5.
East Djangi-TAU
Route Description: В кф.
SSummitMateAscent route to the top of East Dzhangi-tau via the Eastern Counterfort, a combined route with a length of over 1600 m and challenging rock and snow-ice sections.
JANGI (E), Eastern Counterfort - 5B cat.
The route to East Jangi-tau via the Eastern Counterfort is combined: its lower part is a rocky counterfort, the upper part is a snow-ice slope. The total length of the route is over 1600 m, the length of the rocky counterfort is 1000-1100 m. The average steepness of the rocky counterfort is 65-70°, with overhanging sections encountered on the route. The maximum steepness of the ice slope in the upper part of the route is 45-50°.
6. Description of the route by sections.
The initial bivouac is on a snow plateau under the base of the Eastern counterfort. The exit to the base of the counterfort is 120 m along a snowy slope at 40°. 40 m up the moderately difficult rocks to the base of the chimney (sect. a). The right wall of the chimney is a huge detached rock, the upper part is covered by an overhanging rock. The wall above the chimney is a continuation of its left side. The exit to the overhanging rock is 40 m either directly up the chimney (difficult climbing) or bypassing it on the right. Then there is a 15 m wall with two vertical slots.
Ascent via the right slot, then in the upper part of the wall to the left slot and exit to the top of the wall.
40 m up the internal angle with an exit to the right onto inclined slabs (sect. b).
Up the slabs to the base of a wide slot 5 m and up the slot to under a small cornice.
Through the cornice, exit onto an inclined ledge and along it 40 m to the left to the junction of two walls (the ridge of the junction sect. b is visible in the photo).