3 гребню
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateDescriptions of the routes to the summit of Tykhtengen via the southern and northern slopes with a detailed analysis of the complexity categories and technical features.
Tikhtengen
SOUTH
NORTH
Fig. 26
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit of Tikhtengen via the West Ridge with a detailed indication of the difficulty of the sections and the necessary tactics.
250 m up to the saddle of the Western ridge of the Tichtengen summit. From the Kitlod glacier - about 1 hour. The approach from the Chegem tourist base to the saddle of the Western ridge is carried out from the Kulak glacier. The path to the upper plateau of this glacier is described in route 233. From the upper plateau along a steep ice-snow slope with a bergschrund in the lower part - a simple ascent to the saddle of the Western ridge. On the saddle (when ascending from the Kitlod glacier) turn right and ascend along a simple snow-covered rocky Western ridge. Bypass the ridge's gendarme by traversing 40-45 m to the right along steep rocks of medium difficulty.
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateCategory 4B complexity route to the summit of Tikhtengen South via the Western ridge, combined, crossing Kель, Upper Цаннер and Семи passes.
- Tikhtengen South via the West Ridge (combined route by N. Popov, category 4B, difficulty level, fig. 18, 26). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) to the Kel pass is described in route 215. From the Kel pass, descend along the rocky western slope of the South Ridge onto the Orotokara glacier and, turning right, ascend on the right side of the glacier to the col of the Verkhniy Tsanner pass. From the glacier, cross the snow bridge over the bergschrund and make a straightforward ascent along the snowy slope to the col of the pass. From the pass, there is a steep descent along the icy-snowy slope with a large bergschrund in the lower part onto the upper plateau of the Tsanner glacier. Across the plateau (closed crevasses), staying close to the slopes of the Tikhtengen massif, approach the col of the Semi pass and ascend along the straightforward icy-snowy slope to it. From the Verkhniy Tsanner pass — 1.5–2 hours. From the Semi pass, there is a straightforward descent onto the upper plateau of the Kitlod glacier and along it (closed crevasses) — to the third, counting from the Semi pass, icy-snowy couloir of the West Ridge of the Tikhtengen peak. On the plateau under the couloir is the initial bivouac. From the Bezengi alpine camp — 8–12 hours. From the initial bivouac, ascend along the steep icy-snowy couloir — 200–