2-му баст. Ю стены
Mixed5Б4,547 m
Route Description: 2-му баст. Ю стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit with a detailed analysis of technical difficulties and tactical features.
Fig. 15.
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Route Description: 2-му баст. Ю стены
SSummitMateDescription of the route "Aylama via the II bastion of the South wall" (5B cat.), combined, with a detailed analysis of key sections and technical details.
74. Aylama via the II bastion of the South Face (a combined route, Sh. Margiani, 5B cat., fig. 5, 15, 16).
From the platform at the top of the Left Rib (point 72):
- 150 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the bergschrund;
- after crossing the bergschrund, ascend 40 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the rocks on the right side of the III bastion;
- from here, 40 m across simple rocks. Up to the wall. 30 m up difficult rocks of the wall with a crack onto a ledge. Then directly up 8–10 m across rocks of medium difficulty, then 12 m up the wall to a small platform, from where there is a 40 m ascent up rocks of medium difficulty to a platform under a large boulder. From the platform on the Left Rib, it takes 3–4 hours.
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