траверс

Mixed4,238 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
0

Traverse of the Shkhelda massif from east to west, category 5B difficulty, detailed description of the route and necessary equipment.

102. Traverse of Shkhelda massif from east to west (V. Nesterov's route, category 5B). The path from Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Shkhelda Eastern is described in route 100. From the summit, descend 40 m down simple rocks of the Western ridge to a platform. From the platform, bypassing the ridge, descend into huge rock gates between two gendarmes. From the gates, make a 35-meter sporty descent down an icy couloir, followed by two 40-meter rappels and a descent down snowy, steep rocks of medium difficulty, initially down the slope and then along the ridge - a 70-80 m descent to a platform under the 2nd (from the east - 1st) gendarme of the ridge. The platform is a bivouac site. From the platform, bypass the 2nd and 1st gendarmes located on the ridge between the Eastern and Central summits, along a rocky and then snowy shelf, and then along rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the ridge to reach a platform under the ridge connecting the Eastern ridge of Shkhelda Central's rock tower. From the platform, ascend rocks of medium difficulty to the ridge under the Eastern wall, and from it, 40 m up rocks of medium difficulty, and then up difficult rocks of the wall to reach a ledge. Along the ledge, and then across a 6-7-meter smooth, steep slab - traverse right to a chimney. Up the steep, smooth, difficult chimney, ascend 5 m to a second ledge. Along the ledge, bypass a huge rock to the right. Behind the rock - straight up a 20-meter wall ("live" cams!), with small talus ledges - to the ridge of the eastern shoulder of the summit. Up the steep, destroyed ridge of the shoulder, ascend to a small gendarme. Descend from it under the 2nd gendarme, which is bypassed on a ledge from the left, and behind it - exit to a platform above a small gap in the ridge.

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