Ю гребню

Mixed4,238 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Description of the route to Shkhelda Peak via the South Ridge with features and difficulties, category 4B.

Сер­гей Дидо­ра. http://4sport.ua/articles?id=28268 Description of the route to Shkhelda Peak via the South Ridge, category 4B, to the traverse (R. Gelbling, 1903). To Shkhelda Peak via the South Ridge, category 4B, to the traverse (R. Gelbling, 1903). From the horizontal part of the Ushba glacier, an ice-and-snow ascent leads to a nunatak. The rocks are bypassed on the left. There are platforms on the nunatak in case of bad weather. The height gain is 250 m — 1–2 hours. Approaching the rocks of the eastern slope of the South Ridge — 300 m — 20–50 minutes; category 2-3 difficulty. Ascending the rocks and moving upwards, choosing safe sections until the overnight stay below the gendarme — 700 m — 5–8 hours, category 3-3+ difficulty. Height gain is 700 m; Bypassing the gendarmes towards the South Ridge, traverse — 100 m — category 3 difficulty. Ascent via the couloir to the South Ridge — 120 m — category 3 difficulty.

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Ascent to Shkhelda East via the southern ridge through the gendarme "Petukh", category of complexity 4B, duration of the route is 4 days.

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