СЗ ребру

Ice
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Ascent to Trapeziya Peak (3740 m) via NW edge from Dzhankuat Glacier North, category 2A, snow and ice route.

Ascent Log

  1. Class — rock.
  2. Elbrus region, Central Caucasus.
  3. Peak Trapezia (3740 m), via NW edge from the North Djan-kuat glacier.
  4. Difficulty category — 2A, first ascent.
  5. Route character: snow-ice, height difference from the glacier 300 m, steepness of the upper part 45°, length 180 m.
  6. Belay: when approaching the upper bergschrund — via ice axe, on the slope via ice screws, 17 pieces driven in total.
  7. Number of travel hours from the bivouac at "Green Hotel" 6–7 hours, descent from the summit — 2.5–3 hours.
  8. Group is training:
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### Description of the 2A Category Route to Trapezia Peak (3697m) in the Caucasus The route involves a technically challenging ascent with varying terrain, requiring careful navigation and mountaineering skills. ### Technical Characteristics - Category: 2A - Elevation: 3697m - Terrain: Varied, including steep inclines and potentially icy sections ### Recommendations for Ascent * Climbers should be prepared for changing weather conditions. * Technical sections require appropriate equipment and experience. * Navigation skills are crucial due to the complex terrain.

Gennady Starikov, Moscow (Author's photo) Trapecija 2A, Ascent Passport

  1. Region — Caucasus, valley — Adylsu. (table — 2008, p. 42, item 171a) Peak name — Trapecija (3697), NW edge.
  2. 2A category of difficulty (first ascent)
  3. Nature of the route — snow-ice.
  4. Height difference from the glacier — 300 m Length of ice sections of 3rd category of difficulty — 180 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°.
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