траверс
Route Description: траверс
The traverse of Tyu-Tyu peaks (West - East) is a challenging combined route that includes snows and ice and rock climbing sections, with a total duration of 7-8 hours.
Traverse Tyutyu Western–Eastern, combined, 3A
Route description:
From the "Dzhaulyak" alpine camp, follow the right (orthographically) bank of the Kullumkol River along the trail to a stream, then turn right into the gorge. Cross the stream and move up the trail, which runs along the moraine ridge towards the rock screes. Below the screes, turn right and cross the large talus to the trail leading to the edge of the terminal moraine. Tyutyu overnight campsite. 2.5 hours from the camp. From the campsite, move along the left (in the direction of travel) edge of the glacier along the moraine ridges to reach the plateau below v. Tyutyu 1st Western. The plateau has crevasses. Turn left on the plateau and, bypassing the ice ascent to the left, reach the glacier terrace, from which:
- a straightforward ascent to the Kullumkol Pass. If the snow is in good condition, from this terrace you can:
- turn right onto the steep snow-ice slope and immediately ascend to the ridge below the second "gendarm". From the pass: