Ю стене З ребра

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SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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First ascent description of Jailyk peak (4533 m) in the Central Caucasus, via the right edge of the I bastion of the Western ridge, 5B complexity category.

Ascent Passport

I. Technical category 2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su, Kulumkol valleys 3. Jailyk peak via the right edge of the 1st Southern bastion of the Western ridge, 4533 m 4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent 5. Height difference: 730 m, length — 1015 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 240 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 79° (3850–4100 m), including 6 cat. diff. — 75–95° (3905–4050 m) 6. Pitons hammered:

  • rock: 53 (hammered) / 50 (left)
  • bolt: 12 / 4
  • chocks: 85 / 70
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A new variant of 5A route to Jalyk peak via the left part of the 1st South-West ridge in Adyr-su gorge on Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

  1. Technical grade
  2. Caucasus. Adyr-su gorge
  3. Djailik via the left part of the 1st South Western ridge (M. Franzuzov's route variant, 70)
  4. First ascent of a new 5A variant approximately
  5. Height difference: 600 m Length: 1000 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade: 40 m Average steepness of the wall part of the route: 67° Height difference of the wall part: 150 m
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### New 5B Category Route on Jailyk Peak in the Elbrus Region Description of the ascent and recommendations for future climbing groups.

Climbing Passport

  1. Central Caucasus. Elbrus Region, Adyr-Su gorge. 2.4.1 according to KMGV.
  2. Name of the peak: Dzhailyk (4533 m); "Big Chimney" 3rd wall of the South Ridge shoulder.
  3. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty, new variant of D. Laskavy's route, 78; 2.4.1.38 according to KMGV.
  4. Route type: rock.
  5. Route height difference: 550 m. Route length: 900 m. Average slope: 40° from R0 to R6. Wall section from R2 to R6: 70°.
  6. Hooks left on the route: 2 pcs.
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