с л. Софруджу
Route Description: с л. Софруджу
SSummitMateAscent to the summit Zуб Sofrudju via Sofrudju couloir, complexity category 2B, duration 9-11 hours.
Fig. 22
1. Ascent to the summit of Zub Sofruju — category 2B (Fig. 22)
From Dombayskaya Polyana, cross the bridge over the Alibek River and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakaysky couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend 300 m up. Then, move left into the Sofrujinsky couloir (prone to rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya Polyana (Bear Glade). From Medvezhya Polyana, initially follow alpine meadows (trail), then snow, and after 300–350 m, move left of the eastern slopes of Belalakaya to reach the Sofrujinsky bivouac. The journey from Dombayskaya Polyana takes 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams!), descend to the Sofrujinsky Glacier, traverse between the upper and lower icefalls, and reach the base of the summit massif. Ascend the steep (50–55°) snow slope (partially rocky), reach the ridge, and follow it to a snow saddle. Continue along the snowy ridge to a wall. In the second half of summer, ice is present on this section — crampons and ice axes are required. The ridge is sharp (belay required!).
- Ascend the 18–20-meter wall (2 pitons!)
- Continue along the broken ridge to a steep ascent
Route Description: с л. Софруджу
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Zuby Sofruджу (2B cat. diff.): route, path description, recommendations for climbers, and necessary equipment.
Fig. 22
1. Ascent to the summit of Zub Sofrudju — category 2B (fig. 22)
From Dombayskaya polyana across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay sky cuolar. Across the stream onto the snowfield and 300 m up. Then left into the Sofrudju cuolar (rockfall hazard!) and up to a large overhanging rock. Then straight up a steep section to the trail and along it to Medvezhya polyana. From Medvezhya polyana:
- initially along alpine meadows (trail),
- then across snow,
- and after 300–350 m, left of the eastern slopes of Belalakaya — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in teams!), descend to the Sofrudju glacier, traverse between the upper and lower icefalls, and exit below the massif of the summit. Ascend a steep (50–55°) snowy slope (partially rocky), exit onto the ridge and along it — to a snowy saddle. Then along the snowy ridge to a wall.