Author: Yu. Vasilenko

Description of the "Brov'" route, 5A, Sokol mountain

The route is very beautiful and diverse in climbing. Stations on bolts. Nowadays, the route has been re-drilled by Misha Voloshinovskiy for climbing and is done mostly with free climbing, except for the "brov'" section. To start, one needs to approach the wall from the road. The climbing is similar to 3rd category routes, and belaying needs to be organized. The start of the route is on a ledge under the "Brov'" cornice, to the right of a slab leaning against the wall. At this spot, two gaps lead under the cornice. One can move either through the right or the left gap. Sokol, Brov' route, 5A R0–R1: 45–50 m, 6b, belaying on bolts + own protection, station on a bolt and two pitons (the left variant of reaching the station requires a pendulum). The start of the first rope is through a slab, which is the crux of the rope. The climbing is mixed, with free climbing interspersed with aid climbing, and constant "under-climbing". 1st variant.

• Climb 10 m up the slabs, then traverse right to the "right" gap, and up through it to the station. 2nd variant.

Sokol-37

Brow 5B

Classic Fantikov's fifth category route, passes through an overhang in the right part of the wall. A beautiful and logical route, not very difficult. The start of the route is under the overhang from the shelf to the right of the slab leaning against the wall. Two parallel cracks lead to the overhang, converging about 10 meters above the shelf. Climb via the right one. Well-equipped, recently repaired. R1 — Up the slabs (bolts) 10 m, then traverse right (to the right crack), into a little corner, along it, then along the crack to the belay station (2 bolts). R1 40 m 80° V+. R2 — Up under the overhang (via a flake, protection — friends), through the overhang via bolts. Immediately after the overhang is the belay station. R2 15 m 95° V A1.