Taklik

Description of a winter combined route, category 1B difficulty level, to the summit of Nukatl South-Western (3776 m) in Dagestan.

ASCENT DOCUMENT Winter category. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Nukatly ridge. Nukatly South-West, 3776 m, via West Nukatly Pass, combined route. Category 1B difficulty, first ascent. Route characteristics: height difference — 550 m, average steepness — 30°, length — 1100 m, sections of category 1 difficulty — 500 m, category 2 — 450 m, category 3 — 150 m. Pitons were not used, protection through rock formations. Climbing hours — 3. Overnight stay in the upper reaches of the Maradukal River below West Nukatly Pass (3100 m). Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — Candidate Master of Sports.

First ascent to the summit Butnubmez Glavny (3932 m) by the northwest couloir and Jnmu ridge, 2A category of complexity.

ASCENT REPORT I. Category of the first ascent. 2.10. Dagestan mountains, Nukatl ridge, Kabza gorge. Butnubmeer Glavny peak, 3932 m, via North-West couloir and South ridge, combined route. Proposed: first ascent, cat. 2A difficulty. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, route length 1200 m, including 1st cat. difficulty – 660 m, 2nd cat. difficulty – 450 m, 3rd cat. difficulty – 80 m, 4th cat. difficulty – 10 m, average steepness 40°. Pitons driven – 2, snow anchors placed – 3, pitons left on the route – 1. Climbing hours – 4. No bivouacs. Overnight stay in BL, in Kabza gorge (2800 m). Leader: