Khrebet Beleuli

Report on the ascent to Peak Beleuli 6065 m via the North slope and East ridge, complexity category 4B, made in 2009.

Peak Beleuli 6065 m. Via the north face and east ridge — second ascent (Route by MAI (MAI) tourist club, led by A. Lebedev, cat. 4B) Peak Beleuli (6065) was one of the last unclimbed "six-thousander" peaks in the Pamir region until 2001. It is the highest point in the Zulumart-Saukdara mountain node. Located in the Saukdara ridge. It has two peaks: The eastern peak is about 5950 m, with a rock wall dropping to the east; The higher western peak is 6065 m. Between the peaks lies a plateau, from which a steep ice fall descends to the north. (From A. Lebedev's report.) View of Peak Beleuli and the ascent route from the North Zulumart glacier. Contents Route Passport — 4

First ascent of Peak Beleuli (6065 m) via the northern wall of the eastern ridge, grade 4B, in the North Pamir.

Ascent Passport Region: Saukdara ridge (western spur of Zulumart ridge, North Pamir). Valley: Northern Zulumart. Section number according to the 1999 classification table — 4.5 Peak name: peak Beleuli. Route name: via the northern wall of the eastern ridge. Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route type: snow-ice. Route height difference: 905 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1680 m. Length of sections: V category of difficulty — 0 m.